Q & A
Aggression
Dear Deena,
My young male golden retriever "Marvel" humps pillows, people's legs, the neighbor's dogs, and whatever else he sees. At first I thought it was cute but now he's a big dog and I have a young child at home which seems to get it as well. What should I do?
Kate
My young male golden retriever "Marvel" humps pillows, people's legs, the neighbor's dogs, and whatever else he sees. At first I thought it was cute but now he's a big dog and I have a young child at home which seems to get it as well. What should I do?
Kate
Your young dog is quite simply a victim of his raging hormones.
Whenever your dog begins to hump some thing get him in a scruff grip and firmly pry him off, speaking sternly to him. You can also use a leash - order him to sit and get him to focus on you with a treat.
If necessary keep a leash on him when he is inside with you. Make certain he is wearing a regular collar, not a choke chain, and grab the leash with a firm snap - easier, some times, than a scruff grip.
Male dogs sometimes try to hump toddlers who are the their size. This can be dangerous if the youngster is knocked down. The instant your dog starts to place his leg on someone, correct him quickly and firmly. Be constant with your commands.
Humping in pups is often an early age sign of dominant and aggressive behavior. These animals are prime candidates for puppy kindergarten training classes, particularly those emphasize early handing restraint, and domestic exercise.
Consistent and quick correction will show your pup that his behavior, even though it's natural, won't be tolerated. Remove anything your dog is in the habit of humping. Make sure he gets lots of exercise. Talk to your vet about getting your dog neutered. Practice some obedience commands with him.
Whenever your dog begins to hump some thing get him in a scruff grip and firmly pry him off, speaking sternly to him. You can also use a leash - order him to sit and get him to focus on you with a treat.
If necessary keep a leash on him when he is inside with you. Make certain he is wearing a regular collar, not a choke chain, and grab the leash with a firm snap - easier, some times, than a scruff grip.
Male dogs sometimes try to hump toddlers who are the their size. This can be dangerous if the youngster is knocked down. The instant your dog starts to place his leg on someone, correct him quickly and firmly. Be constant with your commands.
Humping in pups is often an early age sign of dominant and aggressive behavior. These animals are prime candidates for puppy kindergarten training classes, particularly those emphasize early handing restraint, and domestic exercise.
Consistent and quick correction will show your pup that his behavior, even though it's natural, won't be tolerated. Remove anything your dog is in the habit of humping. Make sure he gets lots of exercise. Talk to your vet about getting your dog neutered. Practice some obedience commands with him.
Dear Deena,
I have a Norwegian Elkhound named Nori. She used to be able to play with virtually every dog in the dog park and we've taken her there since she was a puppy. Now she'll warn dogs away with a growl or snarl and if they don't approach her in a way she's comfortable with, she'll display signs of fear aggression when on a leash and will tell a dog off even when she's off leash.
Natalie
I have a Norwegian Elkhound named Nori. She used to be able to play with virtually every dog in the dog park and we've taken her there since she was a puppy. Now she'll warn dogs away with a growl or snarl and if they don't approach her in a way she's comfortable with, she'll display signs of fear aggression when on a leash and will tell a dog off even when she's off leash.
Natalie
It sounds like your Norwegian Elkhound is basically fed up with being in the dog park. It's time for you to reestablish some communication between you and her and don't leave it up to her to settle it. I have a feeling that maybe you've done that unintentionally on your part, because what's happening now is every time she growls and snarls and the dogs depart, that behaviour is being reinforced and it will increase in frequency over time. So what you may want to do is take her out of the dog park and walk her around the block instead with no other stimuli being around. Make sure you take some great treats with you. Get her to sit, get her to focus on you, and get some eye contact out of her, and maybe in six or seven days you might want to revisit the dog park but at a distance. If she is still comfortable with a dog at a distance with no growling and snarling you may approach the park the next day and maybe go 200 yards in. Providing she's got lots of eye contact with you and she's not growling or snarling, what I would like you to do is reward her for non responsive behaviour. So, if a dog passes by and nothing is emitting from her vocal chords, then praise her for it and hopefully the new behaviour will replace the old behaviour over a period of time.
Dear Deena,
I have a one year old Boston Terrier, Rosie. She is well behaved but very aggressive over her food. We keep the food bowl full all the time and I don't know why she's so nasty if another dog walks by when she's eating. Do you have any suggestions?
Thanks, Heide
I have a one year old Boston Terrier, Rosie. She is well behaved but very aggressive over her food. We keep the food bowl full all the time and I don't know why she's so nasty if another dog walks by when she's eating. Do you have any suggestions?
Thanks, Heide
Let's first get the other dog out of the room for now and I want her to be not so aggressive when you walk by. How you're going to change that is every time you feed her I want you to occasionally walk by and toss something really yummy into her food bowl like a piece of chicken, hot dog or cheese. And instead of an aggressive territorial frame of mind she'll be in a sweet frame of mind every time mummy comes near the bowl. I would not free-feed her because you are getting a lot of problems doing that, instead, time feed her and basically put the food bowl down for a good 5 minutes and if she doesn't eat it then pick it up. I would definitely feed the dogs separately and I would referee both of them by standing in the middle of them. As soon as one goes towards the other's bowl then guide him back to his own. Doctor up their food bowls with a sprinkling of parmesan cheese or liver dust to keep them focused on their own bowls. So good luck!
I have a French Bulldog and every time I try to wipe his feet, cut his nails or put on his coat, he growls at me. Is there any way I can get him to stop the growling?
If you want to turn a negative experience into a positive one, go to Swiss Chalet. Go get one whole chicken, cooked and BBQ'd just the way you like it. When you get home, cut the chicken in half (that goes in the fridge for you!). The other half gets chopped up into fine pieces, minus the bones. Sit on the floor with your dog and give him a piece of chicken. He will think he died and went to heaven and on that note, lightly touch his paw and give him another piece of chicken. Do this for a few days and then increase the paw tapping to paw holding from your hand to his paw. I am sure that from half a chicken later, the furrowed brow will turn into a happily panting you-can-do-whatever-you-want-to-me kind of dog.
Archie, my 3 year old male Westie, is extremely friendly and well socialized, but he barks and rushes to the door whenever someone rings the bell and sometimes will growl at another dog while we are on a walk. This happens on some walks and not others, and with some dogs and not others - there seems to be no pattern, other than it happens more when it's dark outside and with some un-neutered males.
You have two issues here. The first, rushing at door, can be solved by creating a boundary line at the door and redirecting your dog to his bed. As far as walking your dog and your dog being demonstrative towards other dogs, you may want to take more of a leadership role on your walks. For example, if he is marking on every single nook and cranny, allow him to pee only three times on his walk, in the beginning, in the middle and in the end and don't worry his back teeth won't begin to float! And step off to the side when he sees another dog, take a treat out of your pocket put it to his nose and slowly get him to focus on the treat as it travels up to your chin while you throw out some verbal diarrhea as a dog walks by. As the dog walks by, gee isn't it too bad, your dog didn't have a reaction!
Dear Deena,
I recently rescued Bobby, my 4 year old bloodhound from the shelter and discovered he lunges at other dogs when I walk him.
Regards,
David
I recently rescued Bobby, my 4 year old bloodhound from the shelter and discovered he lunges at other dogs when I walk him.
Regards,
David
Dear David,
When you walk your dog, walk on off-hours when there are no other dogs around. Get your dog to sit on occasion when walking him, put a treat to his nose then up under your chin in order to get eye contact. Once you've accomplished a few seconds of eye contact, you then want to increase it to twenty or thirty seconds. In order to get your dog to continue to look at you, you need to throw yourself into verbal diarrhea, and if you don't know what to say simply say GOOD DOG two or three times and work up to nine or ten times. Once you've accomplished this, perhaps you can get a friend with a dog that you can see at a distance, approximately 500 yards away, and provided your dog stays relaxed in his body language and chooses to look at you versus lunging at the other dog then you know you're making progress. Decrease the distance over time and before you know it your dog will choose to look at you because you are the keeper of the treats versus take it upon himself to lunge at the other dog.
When you walk your dog, walk on off-hours when there are no other dogs around. Get your dog to sit on occasion when walking him, put a treat to his nose then up under your chin in order to get eye contact. Once you've accomplished a few seconds of eye contact, you then want to increase it to twenty or thirty seconds. In order to get your dog to continue to look at you, you need to throw yourself into verbal diarrhea, and if you don't know what to say simply say GOOD DOG two or three times and work up to nine or ten times. Once you've accomplished this, perhaps you can get a friend with a dog that you can see at a distance, approximately 500 yards away, and provided your dog stays relaxed in his body language and chooses to look at you versus lunging at the other dog then you know you're making progress. Decrease the distance over time and before you know it your dog will choose to look at you because you are the keeper of the treats versus take it upon himself to lunge at the other dog.
Dear Deena,
My dog got bitten a couple of weeks ago, and since then, every time I
take him to a park, he lets out a throaty growl when he sees another
dog. Zeke is a three-year-old Samoyed and is neutered. He's always
been friendly and calm. Why is he doing this now?
Emma, BWV
My dog got bitten a couple of weeks ago, and since then, every time I
take him to a park, he lets out a throaty growl when he sees another
dog. Zeke is a three-year-old Samoyed and is neutered. He's always
been friendly and calm. Why is he doing this now?
Emma, BWV
Hello Emma:
I'm glad you've brought this up, because this is the kind of
behaviours that can escalate and needs to be dealt with early. Let me explain: He growls because he sees the other dog as an intruder, and wants it to go away. So when the other dog moves off, Zeke's behaviour gets reinforced as successful, so it's quite likely that his growling will increase, or that he might even start lunging at other dogs.
The first thing you need to do is give him some down time. Give him 5 days to a week away from any contact with other dogs. During this time, work on communicating with Zeke, focusing on eye contact. Take some special treats with you on your walks, and practice basic training exercises like sitting on first command, and reinforce the right actions with treats and lots of verbal love while (this is important) keeping eye contact at all times. Practice this for a week or so, and then go to the entrance of the park, keeping a close eye on Zeke's body language. If he remains relaxed, then you're making some real progress... but it's still important to keep him close, feeling bonded and safe with you.
I'm glad you've brought this up, because this is the kind of
behaviours that can escalate and needs to be dealt with early. Let me explain: He growls because he sees the other dog as an intruder, and wants it to go away. So when the other dog moves off, Zeke's behaviour gets reinforced as successful, so it's quite likely that his growling will increase, or that he might even start lunging at other dogs.
The first thing you need to do is give him some down time. Give him 5 days to a week away from any contact with other dogs. During this time, work on communicating with Zeke, focusing on eye contact. Take some special treats with you on your walks, and practice basic training exercises like sitting on first command, and reinforce the right actions with treats and lots of verbal love while (this is important) keeping eye contact at all times. Practice this for a week or so, and then go to the entrance of the park, keeping a close eye on Zeke's body language. If he remains relaxed, then you're making some real progress... but it's still important to keep him close, feeling bonded and safe with you.
Dear Deena,
My 15 month old Shepherd named 'Buckwheat' is a gentle dog, but is
now growling when I approach him to retrieve my slipper out of his
mouth! It scares the heck out of me. Help!
Signed
Running out of slippers 'Gloria'
Toronto
My 15 month old Shepherd named 'Buckwheat' is a gentle dog, but is
now growling when I approach him to retrieve my slipper out of his
mouth! It scares the heck out of me. Help!
Signed
Running out of slippers 'Gloria'
Toronto
Dear Gloria,
Look at it from Buckwheat's point of view. Every time you take you
slipper away he is losing his plaything, so he is starting to
mistrust you and is becoming defensive. In order to solve the problem you need to teach him to drop a toy on command. Give him a low motivation toy (something plastic that he likes, but doesn't love) and then offer him a yummy treat: put it to his nose say 'drop it'. When he drops the toy give him the treat, then give him the toy back.
If Buckwheat has a tendency to run away with the object in his mouth, attach a light line so you can step on it as he bolts. Remember to approach your dog from the side and bent down to his level so he doesn't perceive you as a threat. If all else fails, a dab or two of Listerine on the slipper will deter Buckwheat for sure.
Look at it from Buckwheat's point of view. Every time you take you
slipper away he is losing his plaything, so he is starting to
mistrust you and is becoming defensive. In order to solve the problem you need to teach him to drop a toy on command. Give him a low motivation toy (something plastic that he likes, but doesn't love) and then offer him a yummy treat: put it to his nose say 'drop it'. When he drops the toy give him the treat, then give him the toy back.
If Buckwheat has a tendency to run away with the object in his mouth, attach a light line so you can step on it as he bolts. Remember to approach your dog from the side and bent down to his level so he doesn't perceive you as a threat. If all else fails, a dab or two of Listerine on the slipper will deter Buckwheat for sure.
Dear Deena,
My name is Marion and I have 2 dogs: a 1 year old Old English Sheepdog named Lola, and a 5 year old English Bull Terrier named Cane. My problem is that my younger one play mauls the older dog and he has to put her into a worrisome throat lock. They have been together for 3 weeks and I need to get my puppy under control.
My name is Marion and I have 2 dogs: a 1 year old Old English Sheepdog named Lola, and a 5 year old English Bull Terrier named Cane. My problem is that my younger one play mauls the older dog and he has to put her into a worrisome throat lock. They have been together for 3 weeks and I need to get my puppy under control.
Hi Marion,
Hierarchies do exist among domestic dogs and it sounds like your Lola is the alpha of the pack! I would monitor her behavior and supervise the play from now on. I would not allow her to put your precious Cane into a 'throat lock' as you would call it. Take a more assertive role on your part and get them into some obedience classes! Keep your two dogs separated when you're not home by either using baby gates or a crate. Have a leash attached to your dog and correct any unwanted behavior. When your dog is playing nicely with your other dog remember to reward him, and over time your dog's nice behavior will increase in frequency.
Hierarchies do exist among domestic dogs and it sounds like your Lola is the alpha of the pack! I would monitor her behavior and supervise the play from now on. I would not allow her to put your precious Cane into a 'throat lock' as you would call it. Take a more assertive role on your part and get them into some obedience classes! Keep your two dogs separated when you're not home by either using baby gates or a crate. Have a leash attached to your dog and correct any unwanted behavior. When your dog is playing nicely with your other dog remember to reward him, and over time your dog's nice behavior will increase in frequency.
Dear Deena,
My name is Gail and I have a 3 year old German shorthaired pointer named Bret. He is really possessive over balls and Frisbee. He has not bitten any other dog or person but he jumps on them with a lot of aggression, which has me worried that he may harm them. What can I do?
My name is Gail and I have a 3 year old German shorthaired pointer named Bret. He is really possessive over balls and Frisbee. He has not bitten any other dog or person but he jumps on them with a lot of aggression, which has me worried that he may harm them. What can I do?
Hi Gail,
Possessive aggression is often a play off of dominance aggression. The first step is to remove all balls and Frisbees. When retraining your dog you should train him to drop it with objects that hold little or no interest to your dog. As soon as your dog drops it give your dog a high motivator treat. Then you can proceed to more desirable objects. You can also teach your dog to 'stay' as variable objects are placed around him. If you prefer you can teach your dog to 'leave it'. Then ask your dog to come to you. When he does, praise lavishly and use a food reward. Once you do this successfully you can then slowly proceed to more appealing objects now with the drop it or leave command in place.
Possessive aggression is often a play off of dominance aggression. The first step is to remove all balls and Frisbees. When retraining your dog you should train him to drop it with objects that hold little or no interest to your dog. As soon as your dog drops it give your dog a high motivator treat. Then you can proceed to more desirable objects. You can also teach your dog to 'stay' as variable objects are placed around him. If you prefer you can teach your dog to 'leave it'. Then ask your dog to come to you. When he does, praise lavishly and use a food reward. Once you do this successfully you can then slowly proceed to more appealing objects now with the drop it or leave command in place.
Dear Deena,
My bull dog 'Thor' lifts up his leg on everything and pays no attention to us. He's pushy with other dogs, male and female, and other dogs snap at him. I am embarrassed as when I have friends that I go walking with it becomes a chore for me to have him on a family outing.
Jeff
My bull dog 'Thor' lifts up his leg on everything and pays no attention to us. He's pushy with other dogs, male and female, and other dogs snap at him. I am embarrassed as when I have friends that I go walking with it becomes a chore for me to have him on a family outing.
Jeff
Hello Jeff,
Un-neutered (intact) males are always in heat, so to speak. This means they are always ready to breed. To display his maleness, your dog marks his territory by urinating. Get your dog neutered. Neutering will also prevent testicular and prostate cancer as well as tumors or hernias around the anus. Intact male dogs tend to be much more aggressive to other male dogs and can get into frequent fights. Neutering will curb or prevent this problem if done before fighting habits start.
Intact males tend to roam more and disappear for days. When a female is in heat in the neighborhood they may take residence outside you poor neighbor's door for the three weeks their female is in heat. Intact males also are more likely to urinate in your house repeatedly marking several chosen spots to freshen up their scent post and clam the territory as theirs. Obedience training is imperative for intact males, as they tend to be more dominant with their family. Practice indoors to remind your dog that he must respect you and your house.
Un neutered male dogs that are obedience trained from a young age will grow up respectful and be less likely to mark indoors. Practicing obedience lessons inside reminds your dog that you are the pack leader and that he must respect your space.
The only way to prevent your male dog from roaming, marking territory, and fighting with other dogs is to get him neutered or keep him in a fenced yard. Short of neutering, don't let your dog drag you to every bush so he can urinate on it. Let him mark a couple of bushes on the edge of your property. After that you get to decided where he gets to mark on the walk, just a few bladder – emptying pees will do. If you must keep your dog intact make sure to socialize him around other friendly dogs as he grows up, so that he will learn how to interact. Start obedience training when your dog is young, with puppy classes and carry on with the training through adolescence and into adulthood. Make sure he has a spacious, securely fenced yard.
Un-neutered (intact) males are always in heat, so to speak. This means they are always ready to breed. To display his maleness, your dog marks his territory by urinating. Get your dog neutered. Neutering will also prevent testicular and prostate cancer as well as tumors or hernias around the anus. Intact male dogs tend to be much more aggressive to other male dogs and can get into frequent fights. Neutering will curb or prevent this problem if done before fighting habits start.
Intact males tend to roam more and disappear for days. When a female is in heat in the neighborhood they may take residence outside you poor neighbor's door for the three weeks their female is in heat. Intact males also are more likely to urinate in your house repeatedly marking several chosen spots to freshen up their scent post and clam the territory as theirs. Obedience training is imperative for intact males, as they tend to be more dominant with their family. Practice indoors to remind your dog that he must respect you and your house.
Un neutered male dogs that are obedience trained from a young age will grow up respectful and be less likely to mark indoors. Practicing obedience lessons inside reminds your dog that you are the pack leader and that he must respect your space.
The only way to prevent your male dog from roaming, marking territory, and fighting with other dogs is to get him neutered or keep him in a fenced yard. Short of neutering, don't let your dog drag you to every bush so he can urinate on it. Let him mark a couple of bushes on the edge of your property. After that you get to decided where he gets to mark on the walk, just a few bladder – emptying pees will do. If you must keep your dog intact make sure to socialize him around other friendly dogs as he grows up, so that he will learn how to interact. Start obedience training when your dog is young, with puppy classes and carry on with the training through adolescence and into adulthood. Make sure he has a spacious, securely fenced yard.
Barking
Hi Deena:
I used to take my dog to work, which was wonderful. But I've changed jobs and I can't do that anymore. The neighbours say he barks all day. HELP!
Marcie, Etobicoke
I used to take my dog to work, which was wonderful. But I've changed jobs and I can't do that anymore. The neighbours say he barks all day. HELP!
Marcie, Etobicoke
Don't panic, Marcie. I know this sounds like an insurmountable problem, but it really isn't. First thing you should do is thank your neighbours for mentioning it, apologize to them and let them know we're on it! It'll take a few days to solve this one, and you don't need the added stress of thinking your neighbours are upset with you.
One of the best ways to deal with this is to use a timed-release toy. By that I mean a Kong or plastic bone stuffed with a little cheese or some treats. Give it to him before you go out, and he might be so busy that he won't even notice. You should also resist the temptation to pay him any attention for 15 minutes before you leave and after you come home. Trust me, you'll both be happier for it. If you over dote on your pet, it will make your departure harder on him.
This will usually work wonders, but there are cases harder to crack. Rehearsing with a series of mock departures over a two-week period will almost ALWAYS fix the problem. Randomly grab your keys for no reason. Open and close the door for no reason. Walk out and back in at unusual times of day. Walk out without your keys (but with a spare in your pocket!). If you find this step necessary but daunting, call me, I can help.
One of the best ways to deal with this is to use a timed-release toy. By that I mean a Kong or plastic bone stuffed with a little cheese or some treats. Give it to him before you go out, and he might be so busy that he won't even notice. You should also resist the temptation to pay him any attention for 15 minutes before you leave and after you come home. Trust me, you'll both be happier for it. If you over dote on your pet, it will make your departure harder on him.
This will usually work wonders, but there are cases harder to crack. Rehearsing with a series of mock departures over a two-week period will almost ALWAYS fix the problem. Randomly grab your keys for no reason. Open and close the door for no reason. Walk out and back in at unusual times of day. Walk out without your keys (but with a spare in your pocket!). If you find this step necessary but daunting, call me, I can help.
Dear Deena:
We love our dog, but she is constantly barking. It's driving us (and probably our neighbours) crazy. Help!!
Deafly yours,
Janice
High Park
We love our dog, but she is constantly barking. It's driving us (and probably our neighbours) crazy. Help!!
Deafly yours,
Janice
High Park
Hi Janice:
This is a tough question to answer without more information, but I can give you some general help. Dogs bark for a variety of reasons, and getting to the root cause of the behaviour is not difficult, but will require some one-on-one time with me. You can reach me through my website if the following doesn't help:
If he's an 'outside barker', barking and squirrels and birds, I suggest an unscented spray collar. It sprays in an upward motion when he barks. It is a gentle and non-punitive way to make him stop.
In-house barking issues (at the doorbell, for example) require a different approach. You need to re-channel your dog's energy to his bed. Whenever the doorbell rings, lead your dog to his bed and give him a treat, and have him stay. Praise him (quietly!) for doing so. If you are consistent with this, it will produce great results – he'll wander off to his bed every time he hears the door bell, in a classic Pavlovian response. It can be difficult to be consistent with this, but consistency is the key – you have to do it every single time the doorbell rings. You can even have other family members leave through the back door and come to the front, ringing the bell.
This is a tough question to answer without more information, but I can give you some general help. Dogs bark for a variety of reasons, and getting to the root cause of the behaviour is not difficult, but will require some one-on-one time with me. You can reach me through my website if the following doesn't help:
If he's an 'outside barker', barking and squirrels and birds, I suggest an unscented spray collar. It sprays in an upward motion when he barks. It is a gentle and non-punitive way to make him stop.
In-house barking issues (at the doorbell, for example) require a different approach. You need to re-channel your dog's energy to his bed. Whenever the doorbell rings, lead your dog to his bed and give him a treat, and have him stay. Praise him (quietly!) for doing so. If you are consistent with this, it will produce great results – he'll wander off to his bed every time he hears the door bell, in a classic Pavlovian response. It can be difficult to be consistent with this, but consistency is the key – you have to do it every single time the doorbell rings. You can even have other family members leave through the back door and come to the front, ringing the bell.
Dear Deena,
My name is Renee and I have a 2 year old Papillon named Trumpet. He is a sweet little dog, with a great disposition, but has started to bark a lot even at dogs he has known for a long time. Is there a reason for this?
My name is Renee and I have a 2 year old Papillon named Trumpet. He is a sweet little dog, with a great disposition, but has started to bark a lot even at dogs he has known for a long time. Is there a reason for this?
Hi Renee,
It could be interdog fear, aggression, or cute, tiny Trumpet is controlling you, not the other way around. You need to let him know that this is unacceptable behaviour by interrupting his outburst before he does it! You have to catch him just as he's thinking about it. I find if you distract him and offer him a treat you will notice a huge difference. And don't forget to throw yourself into verbal diarrhea - verbal rewards are every bit as useful as liver-flavoured ones.
You need to walk your dog for 5 days with no distractions, nothing to bark at and practice sit. Then take your dog to an area where there is a dog in the distance and see if Trumpet's body language is still relaxed upon seeing his canine friend. If so, then you can give yourself a pat on the back and know that you're progressing. Eventually, as another dog passes by you can distract Trumpet with praise and a treat, which I guarantee you he'll pick the treat instead of barking his tiny little head off.
It could be interdog fear, aggression, or cute, tiny Trumpet is controlling you, not the other way around. You need to let him know that this is unacceptable behaviour by interrupting his outburst before he does it! You have to catch him just as he's thinking about it. I find if you distract him and offer him a treat you will notice a huge difference. And don't forget to throw yourself into verbal diarrhea - verbal rewards are every bit as useful as liver-flavoured ones.
You need to walk your dog for 5 days with no distractions, nothing to bark at and practice sit. Then take your dog to an area where there is a dog in the distance and see if Trumpet's body language is still relaxed upon seeing his canine friend. If so, then you can give yourself a pat on the back and know that you're progressing. Eventually, as another dog passes by you can distract Trumpet with praise and a treat, which I guarantee you he'll pick the treat instead of barking his tiny little head off.
Dear Deena,
My dog, a toy poodle 'Red', howls playfully sometimes. Others times he sounds as if it's the end of the world. My heart breaks at the sound of him baying, please help.
Heather
My dog, a toy poodle 'Red', howls playfully sometimes. Others times he sounds as if it's the end of the world. My heart breaks at the sound of him baying, please help.
Heather
If your dog is howling plaintively, he is telling you he's miserable, in the hope that you'll come and keep him company. If he sounds playful, he may simply be singing, perhaps because he may have heard a siren. In the wild, wolves have howling sessions- they're social events. If your dog is merely singing, by all means join in and sing along, or play a harmonica or some other instrument. Your dog won't care if you play badly.
If your dog is disturbing you or your neighbors by howling plaintively, startle him with a strong verbal correction in mid - howl. If he is howling out of separation anxiety then a behavior modification program needs to be in place.
If it's a new puppy, don't try to correct a puppy this way. If your newly arrived pup is howling, set up a pen for him and sleep in the pen with him for the first few nights, or put his pen next to your bed and let your arm dangle into the pen to calm him. Keep him near you at night for a week or so, if necessary, until he stops howling. Keep a radio on softly and give him an old t-shirt or some other garment that smells like you, and be sure he has a warm, cozy bed. A crate works well.
If your dog finds out that howling plaintively gets him no sympathy he will stop. Howling isn't necessarily something you need to stop - unless it disturbs the neighbors. It's a good release for your dog, and if you join him, it becomes a valid bonding exercise.
Make sure your dog spends quality time with you. Let him sleep at night preferably next to your bed. Practice his obedience training daily, making it upbeat and fun. Give him plenty of exercise. Make sure he has lots of toys to gnaw on in his yard. Make sure your dog is not wasting away alone in the back yard after a lonely boring day.
If your dog is disturbing you or your neighbors by howling plaintively, startle him with a strong verbal correction in mid - howl. If he is howling out of separation anxiety then a behavior modification program needs to be in place.
If it's a new puppy, don't try to correct a puppy this way. If your newly arrived pup is howling, set up a pen for him and sleep in the pen with him for the first few nights, or put his pen next to your bed and let your arm dangle into the pen to calm him. Keep him near you at night for a week or so, if necessary, until he stops howling. Keep a radio on softly and give him an old t-shirt or some other garment that smells like you, and be sure he has a warm, cozy bed. A crate works well.
If your dog finds out that howling plaintively gets him no sympathy he will stop. Howling isn't necessarily something you need to stop - unless it disturbs the neighbors. It's a good release for your dog, and if you join him, it becomes a valid bonding exercise.
Make sure your dog spends quality time with you. Let him sleep at night preferably next to your bed. Practice his obedience training daily, making it upbeat and fun. Give him plenty of exercise. Make sure he has lots of toys to gnaw on in his yard. Make sure your dog is not wasting away alone in the back yard after a lonely boring day.
Dear Deena,
My dog always barks at people at the door and it's getting out of hand. I need to drag my dog back by the collar and by the time I get to the door he's beaten me to it and continues to bark.
Regards,
Harry
My dog always barks at people at the door and it's getting out of hand. I need to drag my dog back by the collar and by the time I get to the door he's beaten me to it and continues to bark.
Regards,
Harry
Dear Harry,
Get an easy sprayer water bottle from the hardware store and turn it to super shooter mode. Have the bottle close by the door and every time someone comes to the door you can spray the water at your dog, tell him 'quiet' and once he's settled you can give him a treat and redirect your dog to his bed which is visible from your dog's perspective to the front door. If you truly wanted to spend a lot of money, you could always buy yourself a remote citronella collar and when your dog barks you can tell him 'quiet' and the collar will spray him via remote. Remember to put the collar on and off your dog for 4 days prior so he does not associate the collar with anything negative once you put it on and activate it.
Get an easy sprayer water bottle from the hardware store and turn it to super shooter mode. Have the bottle close by the door and every time someone comes to the door you can spray the water at your dog, tell him 'quiet' and once he's settled you can give him a treat and redirect your dog to his bed which is visible from your dog's perspective to the front door. If you truly wanted to spend a lot of money, you could always buy yourself a remote citronella collar and when your dog barks you can tell him 'quiet' and the collar will spray him via remote. Remember to put the collar on and off your dog for 4 days prior so he does not associate the collar with anything negative once you put it on and activate it.
Behaviour & Training
Hello Deena:
I love my dog Lenny dearly, but I love my garden, too. Every time I let her out she starts digging like crazy. The yard is starting to look like a construction site. What can I do to stop this?
Lynn, BWV
I love my dog Lenny dearly, but I love my garden, too. Every time I let her out she starts digging like crazy. The yard is starting to look like a construction site. What can I do to stop this?
Lynn, BWV
Hi Lynn,
Dogs dig for a variety of reasons. Lenny may be digging for fun, for attention, or to escape. It is also a common anxiety-based behaviour. If Lenny is generally an anxious dog he can be trained out of it, but I'd need more details to give you direct advice on that.
Assuming Lenny is not anxious, there are several things you can do. First, get some durable outside toys – if Lenny has something else to play with he may just leave the garden alone. He might also need a little more exercise, so try making sure he gets two 20 minute walks a day, preferably with some off-leash time if possible. And some basic obedience training would certainly solve your problem. Learning to 'leave it' will stop the behaviour, and the training will stimulate his mind and give you some games to play together.
Dogs can be like kids, and Lenny is treating the whole yard as a big sandbox. He can quite easily be trained to dig in a sandbox where he won't damage your garden. And there's an added bonus – he'll be able to shake the sand off, instead of getting caked in mud. If you have kids, make sure to keep their sandbox separate from Lenny's. And if you find it an eyesore, you can always surround the area with shrubs. Good luck, and let me know if you need more help.
Dogs dig for a variety of reasons. Lenny may be digging for fun, for attention, or to escape. It is also a common anxiety-based behaviour. If Lenny is generally an anxious dog he can be trained out of it, but I'd need more details to give you direct advice on that.
Assuming Lenny is not anxious, there are several things you can do. First, get some durable outside toys – if Lenny has something else to play with he may just leave the garden alone. He might also need a little more exercise, so try making sure he gets two 20 minute walks a day, preferably with some off-leash time if possible. And some basic obedience training would certainly solve your problem. Learning to 'leave it' will stop the behaviour, and the training will stimulate his mind and give you some games to play together.
Dogs can be like kids, and Lenny is treating the whole yard as a big sandbox. He can quite easily be trained to dig in a sandbox where he won't damage your garden. And there's an added bonus – he'll be able to shake the sand off, instead of getting caked in mud. If you have kids, make sure to keep their sandbox separate from Lenny's. And if you find it an eyesore, you can always surround the area with shrubs. Good luck, and let me know if you need more help.
Dear Deena,
My name is Stephan and I have an amazing 2 year old mixed breed female name Shelby. Shelby is a wonderful dog but she is very easily excited, and distracted. She won't always come when called.
My name is Stephan and I have an amazing 2 year old mixed breed female name Shelby. Shelby is a wonderful dog but she is very easily excited, and distracted. She won't always come when called.
Hi Stephan,
Thanks for your email regarding Shelby. I would suggest that you go out and purchase an Avenue extendable leash and liver treats. This leash allows your dog to 'wander' approx 24 ft. When you are going on your next walk in the park, walk your dog on this leash and let her wander a bit then call her to you. As she turns to look at you for that split second and when she comes towards you, you can give her a treat. Your dog will then realize after your repeated requests that it's to her benefit to come to you because she gets a real yummy treat.
You could also play hide and seek on the days that you are walking with a friend and as she is left to wander (on the extended leash of course), you could tip toe backwards and hide behind a tree and call her once. Let her use her senses to find you, (either hearing, sense of smell, or eyesight.) When she finds you give her either two treats or lots of praise-my dog became so good at this that even when I had a friend put their hands over her eyes she would try to peek and I didn't even have to call her, she would always find me.
Thanks for your email regarding Shelby. I would suggest that you go out and purchase an Avenue extendable leash and liver treats. This leash allows your dog to 'wander' approx 24 ft. When you are going on your next walk in the park, walk your dog on this leash and let her wander a bit then call her to you. As she turns to look at you for that split second and when she comes towards you, you can give her a treat. Your dog will then realize after your repeated requests that it's to her benefit to come to you because she gets a real yummy treat.
You could also play hide and seek on the days that you are walking with a friend and as she is left to wander (on the extended leash of course), you could tip toe backwards and hide behind a tree and call her once. Let her use her senses to find you, (either hearing, sense of smell, or eyesight.) When she finds you give her either two treats or lots of praise-my dog became so good at this that even when I had a friend put their hands over her eyes she would try to peek and I didn't even have to call her, she would always find me.
Dear Deena,
I often have to baby-sit my parents' 10 year old Dachshund Mitzy, who loves to hump. She humps my dog's bed, my dog's toys, her own bed and toys and anything else she can reach except the humans and other dogs in the house. I could ignore it but she has a tendency to be smelly and even a day after a bath, and I'm fed up with having to wash everything she comes into contact with. I'm stuck with the humping wonder for the next 2 months.
Thanks,
Susie
I often have to baby-sit my parents' 10 year old Dachshund Mitzy, who loves to hump. She humps my dog's bed, my dog's toys, her own bed and toys and anything else she can reach except the humans and other dogs in the house. I could ignore it but she has a tendency to be smelly and even a day after a bath, and I'm fed up with having to wash everything she comes into contact with. I'm stuck with the humping wonder for the next 2 months.
Thanks,
Susie
Well Susie, sounds like Mitzy wants to be a boy! I'm happy to hear she's not humping your dog and she's not humping you. Minimize the stuff you have on the floor for her to hump and give her something to chew on by putting some toys in her bed. I would also take her to your vet and find out what's causing that odour.
Dear Deena,
My dog is picking up bad habits in the dog park, she is now pinning other dogs to the ground and she is a one year old Portugese Water Dog.
Thank you,
Liz
My dog is picking up bad habits in the dog park, she is now pinning other dogs to the ground and she is a one year old Portugese Water Dog.
Thank you,
Liz
Dear Liz,
I would stop taking your dog to the dog park and go on nice long walks instead. There are many trails in Toronto where you can focus on reconnecting with your dog regarding basic exercises that you taught your dog when she was younger. If you are concerned about your dog not being able to run around then use a retractable leash when going for a walk so on occasion you can let your dog out and 'be a dog' then rein her back in for a good five minutes and get her to do an on-leash heel walk beside you. You need to let your dog know YOU are in control of the situation instead of HIM.
I would stop taking your dog to the dog park and go on nice long walks instead. There are many trails in Toronto where you can focus on reconnecting with your dog regarding basic exercises that you taught your dog when she was younger. If you are concerned about your dog not being able to run around then use a retractable leash when going for a walk so on occasion you can let your dog out and 'be a dog' then rein her back in for a good five minutes and get her to do an on-leash heel walk beside you. You need to let your dog know YOU are in control of the situation instead of HIM.
Dear Deena,
My dog won't come to me when I call when she's in the back yard.
Regards,
Tina
My dog won't come to me when I call when she's in the back yard.
Regards,
Tina
Dear Tina,
I have a couple of suggestions - one is to get a ziplock container (not a baggie) and put some cookies sprinkled with parmesean cheese in the container and everytime you call your dog to come inside, shake the container. Once your dog comes to you out of sheer curiosity, reward with a cookie from the container. You want your dog to have a pleasant association with that sound. Eventually you will be weaning your dog off the sound of the container and respond to the sound of your voice, just remember to reward her for coming each time. Another exercise is attach a retractable leash to your dog when she goes outside and let it out to its full length, then pop the leash while calling your dogs name and with your free hand wiggle at your midsection with a cookie in it so it acts as a target for your dog to come towards you.
I have a couple of suggestions - one is to get a ziplock container (not a baggie) and put some cookies sprinkled with parmesean cheese in the container and everytime you call your dog to come inside, shake the container. Once your dog comes to you out of sheer curiosity, reward with a cookie from the container. You want your dog to have a pleasant association with that sound. Eventually you will be weaning your dog off the sound of the container and respond to the sound of your voice, just remember to reward her for coming each time. Another exercise is attach a retractable leash to your dog when she goes outside and let it out to its full length, then pop the leash while calling your dogs name and with your free hand wiggle at your midsection with a cookie in it so it acts as a target for your dog to come towards you.
Fears
Dear Deena,
My name is Debbie and I have a 2 year old Multi-poo name Yum Yum. My problem is that she is afraid of garbage cans and it makes it literally impossible for me to take her out for a walk on garbage night. Why is this and what can I do?
My name is Debbie and I have a 2 year old Multi-poo name Yum Yum. My problem is that she is afraid of garbage cans and it makes it literally impossible for me to take her out for a walk on garbage night. Why is this and what can I do?
I love your dog's name - very unique. Why don't you try to make fun of the garbage cans instead of reassuring her that 'its okay'? Unintentionally on your part you are actually reassuring her that it's okay to be afraid. So when you go out on garbage nights take some treats with you and when she shows no fear towards the garbage you can reward her and give her lots of praise, that is after you say in a high pitch voice 'Oh what a big funny garbage it is'. And then she'll realize that mom's not afraid so why should she!
Dear Deena,
My name is George and we have a 2 year old black Lab name Wally. He was adopted as a rescue and is non aggressive, and is very timid and afraid of men. What do we do to gain his confidence?
My name is George and we have a 2 year old black Lab name Wally. He was adopted as a rescue and is non aggressive, and is very timid and afraid of men. What do we do to gain his confidence?
Hi George,
Sometimes I see problems like this one with rescue dogs. What Wally needs is some self confidence. Enroll Wally in a dog obedience course like the 'Canine Good Neighbour'. At home you need to put Wally in another room when guests show up, and don't bring him out until everyone's nicely settled.
Let him come out and see how much mingling he's willing to do. Get your guests to give him a treat, with no eye contact. This might take a while, but Wally should get over his fear just fine. What you're actually doing is counter conditioning in other words you're trying to change Wally's view of strangers from a fearful one to a 'this person is okay'.
If you're finding it doesn't work, please let me know. You might need a full-blown behaviour modification program, and we can certainly set up an appointment for you.
Good luck and show some patience. Wally can't tell you where this fear came from but a little time and TLC will do wonders.
Sometimes I see problems like this one with rescue dogs. What Wally needs is some self confidence. Enroll Wally in a dog obedience course like the 'Canine Good Neighbour'. At home you need to put Wally in another room when guests show up, and don't bring him out until everyone's nicely settled.
Let him come out and see how much mingling he's willing to do. Get your guests to give him a treat, with no eye contact. This might take a while, but Wally should get over his fear just fine. What you're actually doing is counter conditioning in other words you're trying to change Wally's view of strangers from a fearful one to a 'this person is okay'.
If you're finding it doesn't work, please let me know. You might need a full-blown behaviour modification program, and we can certainly set up an appointment for you.
Good luck and show some patience. Wally can't tell you where this fear came from but a little time and TLC will do wonders.
Dear Deena,
I have an English Bulldog, Rocky, who literally has a panic attack around strangers. What can I do for him so he isn't so terrified?
Thanks,
David
I have an English Bulldog, Rocky, who literally has a panic attack around strangers. What can I do for him so he isn't so terrified?
Thanks,
David
We are going to get him to like strangers and let's start with outside. Get a couple of friends, even if you have to pay them off with a bottle of wine, to walk by your bulldog and toss him a treat from a distance. So if you're at the end of one driveway and they're at the other end, get them to toss a treat for 4-5 days straight, then after that get them to dip into the driveway and toss a treat for another 4-5 days straight . After that, get them to come up to the dog to toss him a treat and hopefully he'll be associating strangers with something yummy. And prior to doing all that, take Rocky for a walk with nobody around and practice your sits, practice putting a treat to your dogs nose and swinging it up to your chin, stand tall, throw yourself into a little bit of verbal diarrhea and tell him how wonderful he is so you're giving him a way of communicating with you and lots of eye contact. If a dog has no eye contact then how is he going to know what your next command is going to be? This will also build a foundation for communication between you and your dog in the future.
As far as inside is concerned, what I would do is put your dog in another room when your friends come to the door, wait for them to sit down, bring your dog out and only when he initiates any form of contact do the people toss him a treat with no eye contact with your dog. And if he comes up to them and initiates any petting, they can do so but with no eye contact. You can also teach him to go to his bed so that when the people get up to leave, he'll be in a safe place.
As far as inside is concerned, what I would do is put your dog in another room when your friends come to the door, wait for them to sit down, bring your dog out and only when he initiates any form of contact do the people toss him a treat with no eye contact with your dog. And if he comes up to them and initiates any petting, they can do so but with no eye contact. You can also teach him to go to his bed so that when the people get up to leave, he'll be in a safe place.
I've been working with a trainer to help my dog overcome fear based issues. Most people are respectful when I ask them to not approach my dog or approach a certain way, the same with their dog approaching mine, but every now and then you get the people who insist they know better and completely ignore your requests. Each time this happens I feel like I am starting from scratch with working with my dog overcoming his fears. What can I do to stop this?
I appreciate you trying hard to correct your dog's behaviour, however, by the sounds of it, it doesn't sound like your dog is ready to be in those situations that you keep coming upon, therefore I would continue building a foundation of communicating with your dog before exposing him/her to the stimuli that sets him off. What you're hoping for is your dog not to make the choice and take it upon himself to lash out, but to basically sit and look at you with those doleful eyes as you continue to throw yourself into verbal diarrhea. Having said that, if all your efforts are falling upon deaf ears, then I would turn around and walk away in the opposite direction so that my dog doesn't feel that he has to exhibit the kind of unwanted behaviour and therefore one positive day will roll into another and the new behavior will replace the old behaviour.
Dear Deena,
I recently adopted a dog from a rescue in the country and have discovered he is skittish around loud noises. As I live in the middle of the city, how can I acclimatize him to the sounds around?
Regards,
Derek
I recently adopted a dog from a rescue in the country and have discovered he is skittish around loud noises. As I live in the middle of the city, how can I acclimatize him to the sounds around?
Regards,
Derek
Dear Derek,
I would suggest you take your dog out at night or early in the morning when the streets are quieter, and practice some basic commands like 'sit'. Try to get him to take a treat from your hand, and if he does then you know he's not that nervous. You need to build this up over a series of a few weeks or months depending on the severity of his fear, and gradually introduce him to busier streets. Anytime he shows fear regarding a bus or loud truck going by, do not reassure him saying it's ok and petting him, instead make fun of the situation so he will realize that you are not afraid so why should he be afraid.
I would suggest you take your dog out at night or early in the morning when the streets are quieter, and practice some basic commands like 'sit'. Try to get him to take a treat from your hand, and if he does then you know he's not that nervous. You need to build this up over a series of a few weeks or months depending on the severity of his fear, and gradually introduce him to busier streets. Anytime he shows fear regarding a bus or loud truck going by, do not reassure him saying it's ok and petting him, instead make fun of the situation so he will realize that you are not afraid so why should he be afraid.
First Steps
Hi Deena:
I don't know much about dogs, but the kids really want a puppy and I'm ready to cave. Thing is, we live in a small house and my daughter is allergic to our cat. Also, I've had knee surgery and I can't walk too far. Is there a breed of dog you'd recommend?
Ester, Toronto
I don't know much about dogs, but the kids really want a puppy and I'm ready to cave. Thing is, we live in a small house and my daughter is allergic to our cat. Also, I've had knee surgery and I can't walk too far. Is there a breed of dog you'd recommend?
Ester, Toronto
Hello Ester:
I strongly urge you to have a full and frank family meeting before adding another member to the household. A dog is a wonderful companion, but sharing your home with one entails a lot of work. It sounds like you're thinking about all the right things and doing your research, which is great.
With the limited information you've given me, the Havanese seems to be an obvious choice. They are quite small, they have hair as opposed to fur so they don't shed, and you can exercise them fairly easily at home. We take care of several at our B&B, and they are wonderful and easygoing dogs. Go to my website and click on the 'Around the world in 20 dogs' button, I've got lots of information there. Good luck, and don't forget that as far as training goes, the sooner the better.
I strongly urge you to have a full and frank family meeting before adding another member to the household. A dog is a wonderful companion, but sharing your home with one entails a lot of work. It sounds like you're thinking about all the right things and doing your research, which is great.
With the limited information you've given me, the Havanese seems to be an obvious choice. They are quite small, they have hair as opposed to fur so they don't shed, and you can exercise them fairly easily at home. We take care of several at our B&B, and they are wonderful and easygoing dogs. Go to my website and click on the 'Around the world in 20 dogs' button, I've got lots of information there. Good luck, and don't forget that as far as training goes, the sooner the better.
Dear Deena:
Sophie is a laid back Cocker Spaniel, and we love her to bits. We'd like to get her a friend – another dog or maybe even a kitten. What do you think?
Big Softy
Etobicoke
Sophie is a laid back Cocker Spaniel, and we love her to bits. We'd like to get her a friend – another dog or maybe even a kitten. What do you think?
Big Softy
Etobicoke
Dear Big,
I'm really glad you asked this. All too often people add animals to their family mix without thinking about it too much. It really boils down to the temperament of your existing pet. A good gauge is how Sophie reacts to other dogs around the park. Remember that dogs are pack animals, and the first dog in the household will invariable adopt
the alpha role. At first you will need to do a lot of supervising, and it is essential to feed them separately. If Sophie isn't too well trained, I recommend that you go to training classes before you
introduce another dog.
As for a kitten – dogs and cats can get along very well, contrary to what years of cartoons have taught us! But dogs are naturally
predatory, and a kitten may well trigger Sophie's predatory urges.
Introduce them in the same room for five minutes at a time. Make sure that the kitten has somewhere safe to go away from Sophie. I have a spare room where my two cats Latte and Mocha go when my household gets a bit too doggy for them – I often tiptoe upstairs and find them tucked into a cubby hole in their cat condo.
I'm really glad you asked this. All too often people add animals to their family mix without thinking about it too much. It really boils down to the temperament of your existing pet. A good gauge is how Sophie reacts to other dogs around the park. Remember that dogs are pack animals, and the first dog in the household will invariable adopt
the alpha role. At first you will need to do a lot of supervising, and it is essential to feed them separately. If Sophie isn't too well trained, I recommend that you go to training classes before you
introduce another dog.
As for a kitten – dogs and cats can get along very well, contrary to what years of cartoons have taught us! But dogs are naturally
predatory, and a kitten may well trigger Sophie's predatory urges.
Introduce them in the same room for five minutes at a time. Make sure that the kitten has somewhere safe to go away from Sophie. I have a spare room where my two cats Latte and Mocha go when my household gets a bit too doggy for them – I often tiptoe upstairs and find them tucked into a cubby hole in their cat condo.
Health & Safety
Dear Deena,
My dog Dylan, who is a basset hound, is slowing down as he ages. What special changes should I make for him?
Suzanne
My dog Dylan, who is a basset hound, is slowing down as he ages. What special changes should I make for him?
Suzanne
Make sure his diet is appropriate for a less active dog. Don't get him fat. Provide him with a particularly soft bed, away from drafts and commotion, but do not isolate him. Also older dogs need back support so put pillows at the edge of his bed for him to curl up against. Make sure your floors and stairs are not slippery. If he is used to sleeping on the couch or your bed and can no longer get to these high places, provide him with steps or a ramp.
See that he gets exercise. Fresh air and intriguing smells will keep him healthy and entertained.
Take him for regular veterinary check ups, make sure his teeth are clean and his nails are short.
If you have a pup, a younger dog, or active children in the house, be sure to provide your older dog a place where he can rest undisturbed.
Be sure he has the security of a fenced yard. Older dogs can get disoriented and wander off. Spend twenty minutes of quality time with him every day, giving him a long petting session and brushing him, and checking him for lumps, and skin problems.
If he's had some obedience training, do a couple of fun five- minute practice sessions with him every day. Give him lots of praise responding sessions with him every day.
Try to maintain a constant routine and take into account that his bladder and bowel control may not be as good as it used to be. Install a dog door or an easily accessible place, perhaps near his bed.
Keeping your dog from getting fat will give his old body and heart less weight to carry around. A warm bed, which is important through out his life, will reduce his chance of arthritis.
Massage is an excellent way to keeping him limber and being felt loved. Your company will make him feel at peace and the touching will make him feel special and needed.
See that he gets exercise. Fresh air and intriguing smells will keep him healthy and entertained.
Take him for regular veterinary check ups, make sure his teeth are clean and his nails are short.
If you have a pup, a younger dog, or active children in the house, be sure to provide your older dog a place where he can rest undisturbed.
Be sure he has the security of a fenced yard. Older dogs can get disoriented and wander off. Spend twenty minutes of quality time with him every day, giving him a long petting session and brushing him, and checking him for lumps, and skin problems.
If he's had some obedience training, do a couple of fun five- minute practice sessions with him every day. Give him lots of praise responding sessions with him every day.
Try to maintain a constant routine and take into account that his bladder and bowel control may not be as good as it used to be. Install a dog door or an easily accessible place, perhaps near his bed.
Keeping your dog from getting fat will give his old body and heart less weight to carry around. A warm bed, which is important through out his life, will reduce his chance of arthritis.
Massage is an excellent way to keeping him limber and being felt loved. Your company will make him feel at peace and the touching will make him feel special and needed.
Deena
I have a 1 year old Dachshund X named Bella. Bella used to love her food and now she takes a few mouthfuls and stops eating to come see what we're doing. It's like she's being distracted. The problem is, she then eats all sorts of other things around the house. We've tried switching brands but she still eats like a bird and then has a mid morning snack on our shoes etc. What can I do?
Roger
I have a 1 year old Dachshund X named Bella. Bella used to love her food and now she takes a few mouthfuls and stops eating to come see what we're doing. It's like she's being distracted. The problem is, she then eats all sorts of other things around the house. We've tried switching brands but she still eats like a bird and then has a mid morning snack on our shoes etc. What can I do?
Roger
Well, I don't think it's only the food. There are a few things that I would recommend you do. First, I think you may want to increase Bella's exercise routine that you have with her, and take her out for a few good walks during the day. Secondly, I would probably want to try to dog proof your home a little bit better, like picking up your shoes and putting them in the closet, or you can get some bitter apple and spray it on the shoes so she doesn't touch them. Third, I would time feed her versus free feeding her by just leaving the food down for five or ten minutes and then picking it up, and hopefully she will realize in a few days that if she snoozes she loses. The last point is, it sounds like she has an incredibly close relationship with you so she doesn't want you to disappear out of sight and she gets a little anxious. If she's coming to check out what you are doing it sounds like there is a little bit of insecurity there so you might want to brush up on your basic obedience so she feels a little bit more secure within herself.
Dear Deena,
My husband gives my Jack Russell about a 4" piece of rawhide every day. He pukes a little liquid on the days he doesn't get some. But he stops that bit of vomit on the rare occasion when he does get the rawhide. I'm wondering if it's harming the dog and if it is healthy to give rawhide so often?
Barbara
My husband gives my Jack Russell about a 4" piece of rawhide every day. He pukes a little liquid on the days he doesn't get some. But he stops that bit of vomit on the rare occasion when he does get the rawhide. I'm wondering if it's harming the dog and if it is healthy to give rawhide so often?
Barbara
Hi Barbara, I'll give you two scenarios to try. If your dog does throw up bile when you do not give him rawhide perhaps you may want to feed your dog a little bit in the morning. It could be that his stomach acids are gurgling away and his stomach is empty for too long a period of time and I find with certain breeds that can happen. So you may want to split up his meal into 2 and give him 1 meal in the morning and 1 meal at night. Instead of giving your dog the rawhide everyday there are other things that you can give your dog. Your husband needs to remember that there is a lot of protein in rawhide and if your dog it puking up a bit because of the rawhide it could be because of the amount of protein. Jack Russells love to chew and you can get some soup bones from the butcher and if you put them in the freezer your dog will gladly chew on those. Remember to scoop out some of the marrow so that your dog doesn't get a tummy ache of a different kind. Or you can also give your dog a Bullwrinkle which dogs love. I wouldn't get it size appropriate, I would get one much larger so you can monitor how much your dog is actually going through in a specific time. So good luck with that!
Hi Deena:
We love Christmas and we decorate every corner of our home and leave trays of snacks and candy out for when people drop in. This is our first Christmas with our dog, Laser. He's young and curious. What can we do to keep him safe?
Diana, Swansea
We love Christmas and we decorate every corner of our home and leave trays of snacks and candy out for when people drop in. This is our first Christmas with our dog, Laser. He's young and curious. What can we do to keep him safe?
Diana, Swansea
Well Diana, I'm really glad you asked this question. There are several things that are quite benign to humans that can really hurt your dog. First, keep Poinsettias away from where he can reach them. They have been cultivated to be much less toxic to animals than they used to be, but they can still give a pooch a nasty tummy ache. Chocolate, too, can be quite poisonous to dogs, and I urge you to put it away when you're not around. Macadamia nuts are also very hard on a dog's system.
There are also a lot of common sense things to do. Dogs play with their mouths, so keeping decorations such as tinsel out of reach is a good idea. Tape down all electrical cords, and if you have a tree, cover the water reservoir so Laser doesn't drink the stagnant water. And if you're getting him a stocking, put it away somewhere safe until present opening time. If he has a crate, the best bet is to simply crate him when he can't be supervised. And keep the number for your emergency vet and animal poison control handy, just in case. Everyone will feel safer that way.
There are also a lot of common sense things to do. Dogs play with their mouths, so keeping decorations such as tinsel out of reach is a good idea. Tape down all electrical cords, and if you have a tree, cover the water reservoir so Laser doesn't drink the stagnant water. And if you're getting him a stocking, put it away somewhere safe until present opening time. If he has a crate, the best bet is to simply crate him when he can't be supervised. And keep the number for your emergency vet and animal poison control handy, just in case. Everyone will feel safer that way.
Hi Deena:
My New Year's resolution is to start jogging. My dog, Spud, is a bit of a couch potato, which is why we called him Spud. Can I take him with me?
Lorraine, High Park
My New Year's resolution is to start jogging. My dog, Spud, is a bit of a couch potato, which is why we called him Spud. Can I take him with me?
Lorraine, High Park
Very small and very large (giant) breeds are really not that well suited to running. Assuming your dog is of a suitable size, running with Spud could do you both a world of good, but some of the precautions that you should take for yourself you should also take for Spud. Have your vet check him out to make sure he's healthy enough. If he is, start with a 'hard day-easy day' cycle, which means alternating walking and running days. A few more pointers: Always run with a leash. It's the law, and it will help you pace each other. Also, carry water (for both of you), and keep the runs to about 5 kms, or 20 minutes. Overdoing it can cause ligament and bone problems. But a fit dog is a happy dog, and that's what we want. Good luck with that resolution – at least you have that 400-acre park at your doorstep.
Hi Deena:
I always gain a few pounds over the holiday season. I've noticed that our Lab, Rudy, has done the same. How can I help him lose weight?
Adrian, Bloor West Village
I always gain a few pounds over the holiday season. I've noticed that our Lab, Rudy, has done the same. How can I help him lose weight?
Adrian, Bloor West Village
I'm glad you've noticed, Adrian, it's the first step to dealing with the problem, and it's becoming a big one with city dogs. It is estimated that 30% of dogs are overweight, so this problem is not yours alone.
Basically, you have to do the same thing that you would do for yourself. An average lab should weigh in at about 70 lbs, or 33 kg. If Rudy is obese, that would mean pushing 100 lbs, take him to the vet to determine how much exercise he can handle, and increase the exercise slowly. If he's 'just a little chubby', you should still be careful. Permanent bone damage could result form over-exercising an over weight dog.
Food is the other key factor, of course. Feed Rudy less during the winter months when he's less active, and monitor his weight. If it starts to creep up, cut his kibble portion. But the biggest culprit, just like it is for you and I, is snacks. Some treats are very high in calories, low in nutrition and if administered freely can add a lot of empty calories to a canine's diet. Try switching to non-food rewards such as toys or hugs, and check your pet food store for low calorie treats.
Basically, you have to do the same thing that you would do for yourself. An average lab should weigh in at about 70 lbs, or 33 kg. If Rudy is obese, that would mean pushing 100 lbs, take him to the vet to determine how much exercise he can handle, and increase the exercise slowly. If he's 'just a little chubby', you should still be careful. Permanent bone damage could result form over-exercising an over weight dog.
Food is the other key factor, of course. Feed Rudy less during the winter months when he's less active, and monitor his weight. If it starts to creep up, cut his kibble portion. But the biggest culprit, just like it is for you and I, is snacks. Some treats are very high in calories, low in nutrition and if administered freely can add a lot of empty calories to a canine's diet. Try switching to non-food rewards such as toys or hugs, and check your pet food store for low calorie treats.
Hi Deena:
When I take my pointer Sacha for a walk, I see that some people dress their dogs in booties and a coat, and others don't. What do you think?
Omar, The Junction
When I take my pointer Sacha for a walk, I see that some people dress their dogs in booties and a coat, and others don't. What do you think?
Omar, The Junction
Hi Omar,
It's nice to see that Sacha's comfort is so important to you. I don't know if she's long or shorthaired. Generally, I would say that small, short-haired dogs should wear a coat in the cold weather. Larger dogs, or ones with longer hair, should be fine unless it's very cold and wet, or are out for long periods of time. There are so many different coats on the market. In my experience, a well fitting fleece is your best bet.
Booties are not really necessary: dogs tend to have better grip and balance without them. If you do opt for booties, make sure they have good tread on them and Sasha is responding to the cold of the snow, showing signs of sensitive pads on the feet, drying out & cracking of the paw pads, OR if you see Sasha put a paw down and her immediate reflex is to coil it off the ground. However, especially if you walk on salted sidewalks, I do recommend that you wash Sasha's feet with luke warm (not hot) water when you get in from your walk. In really sticky snow, you might find that little snowballs form on her feet. If that happens, use a hairdryer on LOW to gently melt them away. Too much heat too quickly can cause frostbite, so please be careful. If it feels too hot for you, it'll be too hot for her.
It's nice to see that Sacha's comfort is so important to you. I don't know if she's long or shorthaired. Generally, I would say that small, short-haired dogs should wear a coat in the cold weather. Larger dogs, or ones with longer hair, should be fine unless it's very cold and wet, or are out for long periods of time. There are so many different coats on the market. In my experience, a well fitting fleece is your best bet.
Booties are not really necessary: dogs tend to have better grip and balance without them. If you do opt for booties, make sure they have good tread on them and Sasha is responding to the cold of the snow, showing signs of sensitive pads on the feet, drying out & cracking of the paw pads, OR if you see Sasha put a paw down and her immediate reflex is to coil it off the ground. However, especially if you walk on salted sidewalks, I do recommend that you wash Sasha's feet with luke warm (not hot) water when you get in from your walk. In really sticky snow, you might find that little snowballs form on her feet. If that happens, use a hairdryer on LOW to gently melt them away. Too much heat too quickly can cause frostbite, so please be careful. If it feels too hot for you, it'll be too hot for her.
Hi Deena:
I hate the cold, so I exercise in the gym. But how can I exercise Doodle, our standard poodle without having to go outside? Brr.
Antony (no H), Toronto
I hate the cold, so I exercise in the gym. But how can I exercise Doodle, our standard poodle without having to go outside? Brr.
Antony (no H), Toronto
I often hear about generally well-behaved dogs 'acting out' in the winter months. The issue is that they lack both mental and physical exercise – they don't find 'Survivor' re-runs as entertaining as we do. Poodles are smart dogs, so combine mental and physical exercises around the house. Walk around the house making Doodle heel, you'd be surprised at the concentration required negotiating the gap between the couch and coffee table. If you have a long hallway, play fetch by rolling, not throwing the ball. My favourite is Hide and Seek. If you have kids in the house, have them hide somewhere and call Doodle, while you say, 'find'. Soon you'll be able to play with just that command: 'find Jimmy' and Doodles will be off looking, exercising his body, and his brain.
Or you could invest in a good coat and some fleece pants. This is Toronto; it's not that cold out there!
Or you could invest in a good coat and some fleece pants. This is Toronto; it's not that cold out there!
Hi Deena,
I just read your column in Snap Bloor West. Great ideas and very informative! Any suggestions on affordable dentistry for canines? My adorable dog (a miniature poodle), Chloe needs a regular cleaning and the vet is saying roughly $400+...I nearly fell off my chair :)... Thanks, and looking forward to your next column.
Carmen
I just read your column in Snap Bloor West. Great ideas and very informative! Any suggestions on affordable dentistry for canines? My adorable dog (a miniature poodle), Chloe needs a regular cleaning and the vet is saying roughly $400+...I nearly fell off my chair :)... Thanks, and looking forward to your next column.
Carmen
Hi Carmen:
Thank you for your kind words. I'm not a vet, but there are several things you can and should do that will reduce the frequency of professional cleanings. They can be expensive, and stressful on Chloe, too. Brush Chloe's teeth for her. You can get beef flavoured toothpaste at good pet food stores. It won't make Chloe 'minty fresh' but it will slow down build up on her teeth. And those anti-tartar biscuit-bones DO work – just make sure you get one the right size for Chloe. They reduce tartar through the crunching action, so it won't work if it's too big or too small. I've personally waited until my dogs are between six and eight years old before having their teeth cleaned at the vet, but I do urge you to listen to your vet on this one – (s)he has Chloe's best interests at heart. Ask him or her to show you what the problems are, and keep an eye on her teeth, and watch for redness at the gum line.
Thank you for your kind words. I'm not a vet, but there are several things you can and should do that will reduce the frequency of professional cleanings. They can be expensive, and stressful on Chloe, too. Brush Chloe's teeth for her. You can get beef flavoured toothpaste at good pet food stores. It won't make Chloe 'minty fresh' but it will slow down build up on her teeth. And those anti-tartar biscuit-bones DO work – just make sure you get one the right size for Chloe. They reduce tartar through the crunching action, so it won't work if it's too big or too small. I've personally waited until my dogs are between six and eight years old before having their teeth cleaned at the vet, but I do urge you to listen to your vet on this one – (s)he has Chloe's best interests at heart. Ask him or her to show you what the problems are, and keep an eye on her teeth, and watch for redness at the gum line.
Hello Deena:
We're very excited to have bought a cottage last fall, and are looking forward to spending time there. We want our dog Goldie to be safe up there. Any advice you can give us would be much appreciated.
Alan, Swansea
We're very excited to have bought a cottage last fall, and are looking forward to spending time there. We want our dog Goldie to be safe up there. Any advice you can give us would be much appreciated.
Alan, Swansea
Well, Alan, dog proofing a cottage is similar in many ways to dog proofing a house, but there are other things you need to consider. First, please make sure you have cottage–specific tags for Goldie with your cottage number on them, and make sure you have the number for your city and local vet. I also recommend that you have a first aid kit for Goldie. I suggest Gravol for car-sickness, Benadryl for insect bites and allergic reactions, anti-bacterial ointment, aspirin, hydrogen peroxide to induce vomiting if you have to, a muzzle (because injured animals can get aggressive) and a blanket that can double as a stretcher. It's important that you review this list with your vet before you need to use any of these medicines, and make a note of the appropriate dosage based on Goldie's size, age and health.
And every dog gets skunked at least once a season! Tomato juice is a popular remedy, but I find a mixture of dish soap, baking soda and peroxide does a much better job of getting rid of the smell. Pet supply stores also sell special shampoos, but I find that the homemade remedy works best.
I should also mention that a proper car restraint, either a dog seat belt of a cage, is essential to keep Goldie safe in transit.
Have a safe and enjoyable summer!
And every dog gets skunked at least once a season! Tomato juice is a popular remedy, but I find a mixture of dish soap, baking soda and peroxide does a much better job of getting rid of the smell. Pet supply stores also sell special shampoos, but I find that the homemade remedy works best.
I should also mention that a proper car restraint, either a dog seat belt of a cage, is essential to keep Goldie safe in transit.
Have a safe and enjoyable summer!
Dear Deena,
I love your column. And I love my dog, but since we got him the
garden has never been the same. I want to avoid synthetic chemicals,
but I've been told that natural pesticides can be even more toxic than synthetic ones. Is this true? What can I use, and what should I avoid?
Avid Gardener
High Park
I love your column. And I love my dog, but since we got him the
garden has never been the same. I want to avoid synthetic chemicals,
but I've been told that natural pesticides can be even more toxic than synthetic ones. Is this true? What can I use, and what should I avoid?
Avid Gardener
High Park
Dear Avid Gardener,
This is a good question, and a tough one. A common natural pesticide is Neem, which is extracted from the seeds of the Neem tree, and is generally considered to be the safest. Avoid anything containing Rotenone because it has negative effects on blood chemistry. And Boric Acid should also be avoided because it can weaken the endocrine system.
As far as mulches are concerned, cocoa bean mulch is becoming very
popular. However, it contains the same chemicals found in chocolate,
which is very hard on a dog's system, as we discussed in our December 2006 column. For mulch, use straw, chopped leaves and bark pieces – they area safe bet.
Please remember – always read labels carefully, even if you're using natural products. Cyanide is natural, too! Check the contents, and if you have doubts, please take the time to check with your vet. The truth is, a less-than-perfect garden is often a consequence of living with a dog... most people agree that it's a small price to pay.
This is a good question, and a tough one. A common natural pesticide is Neem, which is extracted from the seeds of the Neem tree, and is generally considered to be the safest. Avoid anything containing Rotenone because it has negative effects on blood chemistry. And Boric Acid should also be avoided because it can weaken the endocrine system.
As far as mulches are concerned, cocoa bean mulch is becoming very
popular. However, it contains the same chemicals found in chocolate,
which is very hard on a dog's system, as we discussed in our December 2006 column. For mulch, use straw, chopped leaves and bark pieces – they area safe bet.
Please remember – always read labels carefully, even if you're using natural products. Cyanide is natural, too! Check the contents, and if you have doubts, please take the time to check with your vet. The truth is, a less-than-perfect garden is often a consequence of living with a dog... most people agree that it's a small price to pay.
Dear Deena,
My family and I go up to the cottage all year round. I noticed that the last few visits that there are more skunks around. I have a dog that is very curious. I want to know what to do if he 'Bentley' encounters one.
Signed,
The Smell Patrol
My family and I go up to the cottage all year round. I noticed that the last few visits that there are more skunks around. I have a dog that is very curious. I want to know what to do if he 'Bentley' encounters one.
Signed,
The Smell Patrol
Dear Smell,
Practice your dog's recalls on leash before letting him off so you can call him back in the nick of time if and when you see a skunk. A skunk will generally raise its tail and hiss prior to spraying. When animals ignore the skunks signals they then can spray several times, very accurately, up to 10 feet away! If your dog does get 'skunked' and it will happen from time to time, an effective homemade solution is: 4 cups of hydrogen peroxide, 4 tablespoons of baking soda and 1 teaspoon of dish soap.
Remember when bathing your dog to put cotton balls in his ears and wear rubber gloves. Apply the solution starting at his head and work your way to his tail, and it is really important to rinse thoroughly. It works, but prevention is definitely the least odorous and onerous route. I have also been asked about tomato juice and I find that I would never have enough tomato juice in my pantry to give my dog a bath, let alone have him sit in... and frankly it just doesn't work as well.
Another concern is porcupines. If your dog has a run-in with a porcupine it can be painful and scary. Calm him down, put him in his crate if you have one, and get him to a vet immediately. He will have to be sedated to have the quills removed, but should recover quickly. If the quills are not removed within 24 hours there is a high risk of infection.
Practice your dog's recalls on leash before letting him off so you can call him back in the nick of time if and when you see a skunk. A skunk will generally raise its tail and hiss prior to spraying. When animals ignore the skunks signals they then can spray several times, very accurately, up to 10 feet away! If your dog does get 'skunked' and it will happen from time to time, an effective homemade solution is: 4 cups of hydrogen peroxide, 4 tablespoons of baking soda and 1 teaspoon of dish soap.
Remember when bathing your dog to put cotton balls in his ears and wear rubber gloves. Apply the solution starting at his head and work your way to his tail, and it is really important to rinse thoroughly. It works, but prevention is definitely the least odorous and onerous route. I have also been asked about tomato juice and I find that I would never have enough tomato juice in my pantry to give my dog a bath, let alone have him sit in... and frankly it just doesn't work as well.
Another concern is porcupines. If your dog has a run-in with a porcupine it can be painful and scary. Calm him down, put him in his crate if you have one, and get him to a vet immediately. He will have to be sedated to have the quills removed, but should recover quickly. If the quills are not removed within 24 hours there is a high risk of infection.
Interacting with people
Dear Deena,
My name is Colleen and we are having trouble teaching our 2 year old Pug Sadie not to jump up. She really just wants to lick faces but it's bad manners and she ends up scarring little people. We're finding it difficult because she is small(and pretty cute if I do say so myself) because people on the street reinforce her coming up for attention. This also happens when people enter our house.
My name is Colleen and we are having trouble teaching our 2 year old Pug Sadie not to jump up. She really just wants to lick faces but it's bad manners and she ends up scarring little people. We're finding it difficult because she is small(and pretty cute if I do say so myself) because people on the street reinforce her coming up for attention. This also happens when people enter our house.
Hi Colleen,
Your pug sounds adorable, yet let's try to get her to control her over exuberance with people... to start with you need to let her have a 6ft leash on her so you can control and train her at the same time and as someone knocks on the door you can teach her to only come as far as mom wants her to! So to get her to do this you pretend someone is at the door and as you go answer the imaginary friend, you know that your beloved friend is going to follow you. You then stop and pick up the leash and take her in a silent manner, no using her name in vein and take her either where the tile meets the wood floor or at your entrance of your vestibule, then turn around and go answer the door, as she follows you once again pick up the leash and take her back again. Do this 5-6 times and you will see that she will figure it out and come to the realization that you don't want her to follow!
As you look back in amazement you then can teach her to go to her bed. Make one, a towel or blanket, buy one, I don't care , just give her a spot and you then lead her with a treat and say go to your bed/mat, spot, whatever... and lead her with a treat. Practice this a few times and before you know it you'll be a proud parent, that is of the 4 legged kind. As far as over exuberance on the street when saying 'hello' to people, especially little ones, you could be proactive and step on her leash so she is forced to keep all four paws on the ground. The scenario being this as someone approaches you get Sadie to sit and then quietly step on her leash. You can also give the little greeter of the 2 legged kind a treat to give your dog and Sadie will end up shifting her focus to wanting a treat versus giving kisses. If all else fails you may need to enroll her in a group class to re-familiarize yourself on how to manage your very likeable dog.
Your pug sounds adorable, yet let's try to get her to control her over exuberance with people... to start with you need to let her have a 6ft leash on her so you can control and train her at the same time and as someone knocks on the door you can teach her to only come as far as mom wants her to! So to get her to do this you pretend someone is at the door and as you go answer the imaginary friend, you know that your beloved friend is going to follow you. You then stop and pick up the leash and take her in a silent manner, no using her name in vein and take her either where the tile meets the wood floor or at your entrance of your vestibule, then turn around and go answer the door, as she follows you once again pick up the leash and take her back again. Do this 5-6 times and you will see that she will figure it out and come to the realization that you don't want her to follow!
As you look back in amazement you then can teach her to go to her bed. Make one, a towel or blanket, buy one, I don't care , just give her a spot and you then lead her with a treat and say go to your bed/mat, spot, whatever... and lead her with a treat. Practice this a few times and before you know it you'll be a proud parent, that is of the 4 legged kind. As far as over exuberance on the street when saying 'hello' to people, especially little ones, you could be proactive and step on her leash so she is forced to keep all four paws on the ground. The scenario being this as someone approaches you get Sadie to sit and then quietly step on her leash. You can also give the little greeter of the 2 legged kind a treat to give your dog and Sadie will end up shifting her focus to wanting a treat versus giving kisses. If all else fails you may need to enroll her in a group class to re-familiarize yourself on how to manage your very likeable dog.
Dear Deena,
My dog border terrier named "Piper" snaps at my children if they try to hug her when she is resting. I want my kids and dog to co-exist happily together.
Frustrated,
Helen
My dog border terrier named "Piper" snaps at my children if they try to hug her when she is resting. I want my kids and dog to co-exist happily together.
Frustrated,
Helen
Like many people, your dog dislikes being bothers when she is resting. Tell your kids that the dog likes to rest undisturbed, just as they do. If you catch your dog snapping, scold her firmly, "Don't you snap"and if necessary, do the scruff grip. Then put her through a two to three-minute obedience drill and end with a loving pat.
If your dog is resting but not asleep, you may let your children give her a treat instead of a hug. If you are petting your resting dog and your child comess over, welcome the child warmly. Give your dog a calming massage while your child visits quietly with both of you. Let your dog and your child spend supervised time together doing things such as playing fetch. Let your child feed the dog, so your dog sees your child as someone who provides them with food. When your resting dog realizes your child is approaching with a treat in hand, she actually begins to looking forward to seeing your child and getting the treat.
Make sure your dog has a place to rest undisturbed. Teach your children not to put their faces directly in the dog's face; this can be viewed by your dog as more intrusive than just a pat, and the chances of your child getting bitten are higher. Make sure your kids treat the dog with respect the way they would want to be treated. Warn them if they continue to pester the dog, they might get bitten.
If your dog is resting but not asleep, you may let your children give her a treat instead of a hug. If you are petting your resting dog and your child comess over, welcome the child warmly. Give your dog a calming massage while your child visits quietly with both of you. Let your dog and your child spend supervised time together doing things such as playing fetch. Let your child feed the dog, so your dog sees your child as someone who provides them with food. When your resting dog realizes your child is approaching with a treat in hand, she actually begins to looking forward to seeing your child and getting the treat.
Make sure your dog has a place to rest undisturbed. Teach your children not to put their faces directly in the dog's face; this can be viewed by your dog as more intrusive than just a pat, and the chances of your child getting bitten are higher. Make sure your kids treat the dog with respect the way they would want to be treated. Warn them if they continue to pester the dog, they might get bitten.
Hi Deena:
Our house is really busy through the holiday season, with friends and relatives coming and going at all times. Our Spaniel Charlie is a really friendly dog but I was wondering if all those people in his house would be stressful on him?
Concerned, High Park
Our house is really busy through the holiday season, with friends and relatives coming and going at all times. Our Spaniel Charlie is a really friendly dog but I was wondering if all those people in his house would be stressful on him?
Concerned, High Park
Our dogs are part of our families, and it's our natural instinct to want them with us when we celebrate. The truth of the matter is that this can be quite stressful on Charlie, as he is by instinct a pack animal with a sense of his place in the greater hierarchy. When this hierarchy is thrown off by the arrival of a whole bunch of other members of the pack, it can be hard on him. I almost always recommend that a dog be segregated from any large gathering, especially one that includes people that he doesn't know. You can do this using traditional sit/stay commands, or by physically separating the dog using a baby gate or a crate. Believe me when I say this will make Charlie much happier and calmer, and your guests too. That doesn't mean you shouldn't sneak off for a visit with him, though!
I Have a German Shepard x, about 2.5 year old, he's neutered. He is very anxious and uncomfortable around strangers and doesn't like to be petted by people he doesn't know well. He moves away or gives a warning bite in these situations.
Sounds like you need to take your dog for a walk with no stimuli being around (people) for 3 or 4 days. On occasion while you're walking him, get him to sit, put a treat to his nose, put the treat up under your chin, throw yourself into a little verbal diarrhea so that the object of this exercise is that your dog makes eye contact with you. Once you do this for 3 or 4 days, then have a friend when you go out for a walk one day pretend to walk across your path and toss Tyson a treat with no eye contact. Do this for 3-4 days and eventually your friend (stranger in your dog's eyes!) will come closer to the point where he will be able to hand out a treat to your dog and your dog will be in an appetif instead of an anxious frame of mind.
My dog Memo is very attached to me and very jealous of my husband. We are expecting a baby soon and I am afraid Memo's behaviour will be worse with the baby since I need to hold it constantly.
You need to break the velcro behavior which can be done by incorporating several techniques. Teach your dog to go to a spot or his bed on command and reward him with a treat. Every time your husband and you play snug-a-bugs and your dog does not have a reaction, reward your dog for non-reactive behavior. Don't over dote on your dog when you are home, have cool departures and cool greetings. Get your husband to spend more quality time with the dog including feeding and walking so they form a bond as well. Make sure your dog is well exercised, give him plenty to chew on like a bully stick or Kong jammed with cookies or peanut butter. You should start to see an improvement within a few days – it took your dog awhile to get there, it will take some time to stop.
Leashing
Dear Deena,
Whenever we let our dog out, he roams all over the neighborhood. We're afraid something terrible will happen to him.
Scared, Hendry
Whenever we let our dog out, he roams all over the neighborhood. We're afraid something terrible will happen to him.
Scared, Hendry
Dogs like to roam and explore new territory just like they would do in the wild. Never let your dog run loose outside without supervision. Take him outside with you only when you can pay attention to him and play with him.Surprise your dog by stationing yourself along his escape path. When he trots towards you, chase him home by hitting the ground with a tree branch and yelling "go home". When he is back on his property praise him. Get your male dog neutered. Intact males tend to roam. Tell your neighbors not to welcome him when he comes over. Have them send him home instead. Your dog will be more inclined to stay home if you are actively involved with him whenever he is loose outside.
When he begins to view your home as a place that's fun, he'll want to stay there.By ambushing him when he leaves, you show him that roaming makes you mad. Never leave you dog outside in an unfenced area. Monitor him whenever he is outside off-leash, and provide him provide him with a securely fenced yard so that he'll form the habit of staying home. If you do see him start to slip away, give him a sharp verbal reminder to stay home. Start obedience training to establish control and to strengthen the bond between you and your dog.
When he begins to view your home as a place that's fun, he'll want to stay there.By ambushing him when he leaves, you show him that roaming makes you mad. Never leave you dog outside in an unfenced area. Monitor him whenever he is outside off-leash, and provide him provide him with a securely fenced yard so that he'll form the habit of staying home. If you do see him start to slip away, give him a sharp verbal reminder to stay home. Start obedience training to establish control and to strengthen the bond between you and your dog.
Dear Deena,
My dog leaps, barks and pulls on the leash whenever I tie her up.
Cathy
My dog leaps, barks and pulls on the leash whenever I tie her up.
Cathy
If your dog is insecure, she will feel abandoned when separated from you, especially in unfamiliar places. Her leaping about is her attempt to free herself; she cries in hope of bringing you back to her. Practice tying her up on a 6-foot leash or something solid inside the house. Give her chew toys and a soft blanket to lie on. Make sure her collar is snug so she can't slip out. If she acts up, quickly correct her either verbally or with the leash snap. Tie her up in different places around the house until she calmly accepts it. Tether her outside while you putter about the yard nearby. Correct her firmly the instant she acts up. When she accepts being tied up at home, inside and out, practice in front of the corner store. Don't go out of her sight until she is relaxed and in your view. If she must be tethered in the yard, install a cable system for her that is strung overhead between two sturdy objects. An 8 to 10 foot long line with swivels in it can be attached to the cable and run down to her collar. Never use a choke or slip collar with this device; either one can put her in danger of becoming tangled or even hanging her self. Starting your dog on short increments of being tied up lets her know immediately that staying quiet is what pleases you. Building on that success and tethering her in different locations for short periods lets her know that you expected her to remain calm. Dogs weren't put on this earth to live out their lives tied to a stake in the backyard . Make sure you are not neglecting your dog. Put her through a basic obedience course, which will teach her to respect the leash, and your wishes. When you need to leave your dog outside make sure she has a cozy dog house, dog toys, a sand box to dig in, water to drink. Make her area fun and entertaining.
Never tie your dig where she can leap off of some thing and hang herself, such as the bed. Never tie your dog on a choke chain, which may tangle and choke her.
Never tie your dig where she can leap off of some thing and hang herself, such as the bed. Never tie your dog on a choke chain, which may tangle and choke her.
Deena
My name is Jackie and I have a Beagle X. Tammy loves to go for walks and has started playing tug of war with her leash. At first it was cute but I'm spending the whole walk untangling her legs from the leash. How do I correct her? Thank you.
My name is Jackie and I have a Beagle X. Tammy loves to go for walks and has started playing tug of war with her leash. At first it was cute but I'm spending the whole walk untangling her legs from the leash. How do I correct her? Thank you.
Well Jackie, it sounds like your Beagle X is vying to take control and take YOU for a walk. You might want to do some basic exercises with her to let her know that YOU are the leader and not the other way around. At the same time you might want to entertain the thought of getting some Tabasco sauce and shimmy it up and down the leash, or if that's not going to work, try Grannick's Bitter Apple Spray or good old fashioned Listerine.
My name is Anita and I have a 2 year old Goldendoodle name Gracie. When I take her to our off leash park she ends up running off. The park is quite large so I don't know why she feels the need to run out of the park and on to the street. I don't want her to get hit by a car, how do I prevent this?
Hi Anita,
It sounds like your golden doodle has a severe case of selective listening skills. I would immediately get a 24 ft nylon leash and use that to walk her with. No more off leash until her recalls have been cleaned up substantially.
It sounds like your golden doodle has a severe case of selective listening skills. I would immediately get a 24 ft nylon leash and use that to walk her with. No more off leash until her recalls have been cleaned up substantially.
Peeing
My lab is a great good natured dog, but he loves to mark. The more expensive the car, the more likely he is to mark it as we walk by. Yesterday he decided to mark my neighbour as my husband stopped to chat. It's becoming very expensive and embarrassing to have to keep cleaning people's things for them. BTW, he's 12 years old.
Do yourself a favour, when you go for a walk, don't let your dog mark on every single nook and cranny. He is allowed to pee initially when you go out, then take him down the block without stopping. If he insists on trying to mark, then you show him you are stronger than him by increasing the speed of your walk and turn it into a purposeful one rather than a lounging one. He is allowed to pee three blocks into your walk and at the end of your walk. And by the way, when you do on the odd occasion to stop and chat with somebody, make sure you put your dog in a down-stay, nonchalantly lower the leash and step on it, a few treats in your pocket may help your dog remain in the down position as you chat away. Keep this in mind, don't chat for too long a period, a few seconds or a minute should suffice, and reward your dog as you walk away for being a good canine.
We recently graduated from your puppy class, but between my two boys and my husband now allowing the dog to roam around the house, I've noticed that his bathroom habits have changed substantially. He now has both an inside and outside toilet!
What you need to do is take a huge step backwards and create more structure for your puppy regardless of what your husband thinks. Most men do think they are right, and I can promise if you do this your husband will be groveling afterwards. Plan is, create more structure, close off some rooms, take your dog outside more often, establish a routine and stick to a schedule. And once your dog is good in his NEW structured environment, you can begin to once again give him more freedom by opening up one room at a time.
I own two Standard Poodles and I love them dearly, and yes they do sleep with me on my bed. I have noticed that the last two weeks, one of them is using my bed as a toilet. Not only do I not appreciate waking up to a big wet spot, but my cleaning lady doesn't appreciate it either.
It's so nice to know you guys have such a close relationship. Having said that, if you're going to continue your sleeping pattern, then I would suggest you have your dogs either a) sleep below your waist rather than above or on the pillow beside you and b) you can always give them the luxury of having a bed of their own (imagine that!) by permitting them to sleep on the floor beside you. Try this for a few weeks and I'm sure the dismay that you feel on the bed wetting situation will dissipate.
Dear Deena,
I have a dog named Bijou and I notice when we leave he marks in the house. Bijou is a 5 year old Terrier X.
Regards,
Jeanie
I have a dog named Bijou and I notice when we leave he marks in the house. Bijou is a 5 year old Terrier X.
Regards,
Jeanie
Dear Jeanie,
Your dog could be marking in the house for a variety of reasons, perhaps it's a new relationship or a recent move or change in your schedule. If he's marking at night while you are home I suggest you create a bed by your bed and tether your dog to your bedpost. If your dog is marking throughout the day while you're not home I suggest you purchase a doggy diaper and put that on your dog and at the same time you need to create some structure and close off a lot of the areas in your house so your dog doesn't have the option to mark in his favourite places.
Your dog could be marking in the house for a variety of reasons, perhaps it's a new relationship or a recent move or change in your schedule. If he's marking at night while you are home I suggest you create a bed by your bed and tether your dog to your bedpost. If your dog is marking throughout the day while you're not home I suggest you purchase a doggy diaper and put that on your dog and at the same time you need to create some structure and close off a lot of the areas in your house so your dog doesn't have the option to mark in his favourite places.
Dear Deena,
What do I have to do when I want to pee pad train my puppy? I have a 10 week Min Pin and live in a Condo.
Regards,
Kelly
What do I have to do when I want to pee pad train my puppy? I have a 10 week Min Pin and live in a Condo.
Regards,
Kelly
Dear Kelly,
Establish a routine, stick to a schedule and be consistent regarding any form of training for this puppy. If you want to pee pad train your dog, then you need to keep your eye on the dog 100% of the time, and every 45 minutes take your dog to the area you would like him to relieve himself. Say a command like 'go pee' and after he relieves himself you can either use praise or a treat. If your dog does not relieve himself then keep your eye on him and go back in 10 minutes to try again. Some people find it easier to buy a puppy pen and place the pee pad in the puppy pen in order to pee pad train their dog.
Establish a routine, stick to a schedule and be consistent regarding any form of training for this puppy. If you want to pee pad train your dog, then you need to keep your eye on the dog 100% of the time, and every 45 minutes take your dog to the area you would like him to relieve himself. Say a command like 'go pee' and after he relieves himself you can either use praise or a treat. If your dog does not relieve himself then keep your eye on him and go back in 10 minutes to try again. Some people find it easier to buy a puppy pen and place the pee pad in the puppy pen in order to pee pad train their dog.
Dear Deena,
Spring has sprung, and Jack, who I adopted last year, and I are hanging in the back yard a lot. He pees on the lawn and it dies or turns yellow, and he does the same to my precious new perennials... Help!
Marco, Swansea
Spring has sprung, and Jack, who I adopted last year, and I are hanging in the back yard a lot. He pees on the lawn and it dies or turns yellow, and he does the same to my precious new perennials... Help!
Marco, Swansea
Dear Marco:
Dogs seem to naturally assume that your favourite plant is a toy or a toilet. But he does have to pee somewhere, so the first thing you can do is take him for a walk before an afternoon of gardening.
Here are a couple of other ideas: Dogs don't like the smell of garlic or marigolds, so they will naturally stay away from those areas. I've also found that large rocks in 'at risk' areas works, too. And if your dog does go wee-wee on a prized specimen, gently rinse off the area with a bucket of water to dilute the urine. I should warn you that additives to Jack's diet to change the pH balance don't really work, and can create helth problems, so stay away from those. And keeping the grass slightly longer, at least 3 cm (1 1/4') will help. Also, please keep your dog inside if you apply fertilizers, persticides or herbicides.
You can quite easily train your dog to use just one 'potty' area – and if you make that area pea gravel it'll be easy to clean. With a little care and forethought, even the most tender plants can flourish in a garden shared with a dog.
Dogs seem to naturally assume that your favourite plant is a toy or a toilet. But he does have to pee somewhere, so the first thing you can do is take him for a walk before an afternoon of gardening.
Here are a couple of other ideas: Dogs don't like the smell of garlic or marigolds, so they will naturally stay away from those areas. I've also found that large rocks in 'at risk' areas works, too. And if your dog does go wee-wee on a prized specimen, gently rinse off the area with a bucket of water to dilute the urine. I should warn you that additives to Jack's diet to change the pH balance don't really work, and can create helth problems, so stay away from those. And keeping the grass slightly longer, at least 3 cm (1 1/4') will help. Also, please keep your dog inside if you apply fertilizers, persticides or herbicides.
You can quite easily train your dog to use just one 'potty' area – and if you make that area pea gravel it'll be easy to clean. With a little care and forethought, even the most tender plants can flourish in a garden shared with a dog.
Dear Deena,
Whenever I come home or someone else comes over, my dog piddles when he is petted.
Annie
Whenever I come home or someone else comes over, my dog piddles when he is petted.
Annie
Your dog is excited and overjoyed to see humans. He is also slightly nervous and submissive by nature. This combination leads to involuntary urinating. When you first come home ignore your dog for 3 - 4 minutes entirely until he stops wiggling around and settles down. Instruct all visitors to ignore your dog until he settles down. Have them pet him with slow hands.
When your dog is overexcited at greeting you the added stimulus of being petted is more than he can handle. Wait a few minutes until he settles down. This will help him control his bladder. It is in your dog's nature to be submissive, and he shows his submission by urinating. All you can do it tone down the greetings. Make sure you wait when you come in the house to ignore him. Ignore 3-4 minutes then pet him with slow hands since fast or playful handling will lead to more piddling. Putting your dog through an upbeat, positive obedience program will build his confidence. And don't fret : most dogs eventually grow out of this habit.
When your dog is overexcited at greeting you the added stimulus of being petted is more than he can handle. Wait a few minutes until he settles down. This will help him control his bladder. It is in your dog's nature to be submissive, and he shows his submission by urinating. All you can do it tone down the greetings. Make sure you wait when you come in the house to ignore him. Ignore 3-4 minutes then pet him with slow hands since fast or playful handling will lead to more piddling. Putting your dog through an upbeat, positive obedience program will build his confidence. And don't fret : most dogs eventually grow out of this habit.
Dear Deena,
When I confine my dog into his crate, he relives him self in it. What am I doing wrong?
I am at my wits end.
- Austin
When I confine my dog into his crate, he relives him self in it. What am I doing wrong?
I am at my wits end.
- Austin
Dogs do not normally mess their sleeping area. Your dog may have been confined for too long a period before he had complete control of his bladder and bowels. If the crate was too big, he may have been able to curl up in one end and relieve himself in the other. Or he may not have been allowed to relieve himself before he was crated.
Make sure the crate is not too big. It should be just large enough for your dog to stretch out and stand up straight in. Put the crate in an accessible area - the family room, for example and securely prop open the door. Put treats in the crate. Make sure he relieves himself before going into the crate. If he still messes the crate, take the lid off and let him use just the bottom half. If your crate does not come in two halves use a large cardboard box with no top on it. Set this on a slightly raised surface so she can jump or walk up to it. If the crate is in a pen put papers on the floor all around it.
Take out any excess bedding and give him a flat piece of rug so he can't get away or bury his mess. When you leave him alone, provide him with access to a potty area near his crate or sleeping area. Dogs do not like to mess where they sleep. Stopping all confinement in the crate and giving your dog continual access to a conventional potty area will give him some where to go other than his bed.
Don't confine your dog to the crate without getting him used to it gradually. Make sure the crate isn't too big or he will be able to relieve himself on one end and sleep on the other. Have your vet check for any infections, especially urinary. Some medications upsets a dog stomach or may make him very thirsty so he drinks and piddle more. Always let your dog go to the bathroom before you crate him - it is cruel not to do so.
Make sure the crate is not too big. It should be just large enough for your dog to stretch out and stand up straight in. Put the crate in an accessible area - the family room, for example and securely prop open the door. Put treats in the crate. Make sure he relieves himself before going into the crate. If he still messes the crate, take the lid off and let him use just the bottom half. If your crate does not come in two halves use a large cardboard box with no top on it. Set this on a slightly raised surface so she can jump or walk up to it. If the crate is in a pen put papers on the floor all around it.
Take out any excess bedding and give him a flat piece of rug so he can't get away or bury his mess. When you leave him alone, provide him with access to a potty area near his crate or sleeping area. Dogs do not like to mess where they sleep. Stopping all confinement in the crate and giving your dog continual access to a conventional potty area will give him some where to go other than his bed.
Don't confine your dog to the crate without getting him used to it gradually. Make sure the crate isn't too big or he will be able to relieve himself on one end and sleep on the other. Have your vet check for any infections, especially urinary. Some medications upsets a dog stomach or may make him very thirsty so he drinks and piddle more. Always let your dog go to the bathroom before you crate him - it is cruel not to do so.
Dear Deena,
My Shih-Tzu/Beagle cross isn't house broken yet. Lulu's almost a year and she'll let one rip in the house even after we've been outside for hours and I've witnessed her pee a minute before going in. She pees out of excitement when I come home so I ignore her. I have older dogs in the house and now they've started peeing where she's peed. I've tried disciplining her in the house when I catch her peeing and it makes her cower and pee even more. For such a small dog she has a bladder of a tanker. Please help.
Thank you,
Mary
My Shih-Tzu/Beagle cross isn't house broken yet. Lulu's almost a year and she'll let one rip in the house even after we've been outside for hours and I've witnessed her pee a minute before going in. She pees out of excitement when I come home so I ignore her. I have older dogs in the house and now they've started peeing where she's peed. I've tried disciplining her in the house when I catch her peeing and it makes her cower and pee even more. For such a small dog she has a bladder of a tanker. Please help.
Thank you,
Mary
Well Mary, sounds like your dog is a little bit fearful of you and your form of discipline and punishment is now making her submissive. So what I would do is confine her to one area of the house away from the other dogs, probably close to the back door. Get a bell with a string and start ringing it and hopefully she'll start ringing it when she wants to go out. I'd also take her water away at 8 o'clock at night and hopefully by the last time you take her out at about 11 pm she'll be able to empty her bladder. And if you do catch her peeing then stomp your foot or clap your hands and hopefully you'll interrupt her enough to a point where you can scoop her up and take her outside. There's no more rubbing her nose into the pee and I would open up one room at a time versus giving her run of the rest of the house as you have with the other dogs as she obviously isn't ready for that yet and you need to keep her confined to a certain area. If you do spend family time with her like watching TV then have a leash on her and a blanket down beside you and get her to chew on a chewy of some sort so that she's in sight and she wont be going around to the back of the couch and having a little tinkle.
Puppies
Dear Deena:
We recently got a Labrador puppy called Simba, and we'd like to go to the dog park with her. We've heard great things about the local park, but I'm a little worried because Simba is just 18 weeks old. Am I being paranoid?
Amanda
Swansea
We recently got a Labrador puppy called Simba, and we'd like to go to the dog park with her. We've heard great things about the local park, but I'm a little worried because Simba is just 18 weeks old. Am I being paranoid?
Amanda
Swansea
Dear Amanda,
A "little" paranoia is normal. The first thing I suggest is that you visit the park without Simba. See if you like the social interaction of the other dogs. Check to see that everyone is keeping an eye on their dogs, that they are generally under control, and that there are no 'playground bullies.' Be sure that the area of the park is clean.
I would suggest that your initial forays with Simba be done in off-peak hours, with a pocketful of treats and clean-up baggies. Let Simba check the park out for herself, and practice your basic exercises, like 'come' and 'sit' – you need to remind Simba that you're still in control, even in the park.
If Simba is greeted with an over-exuberant welcoming committee upon her initial arrival, be mindful of her body language. Provided that Simba adapts to this well and enjoys chasing and being chased, she will soon learn that going to the park is a lot of fun. But you don't want her to be traumatized and turn into a 'fear biter.' It is possible that Simba won't enjoy the park, and you will have to exercise her with a more formal walk as opposed to letting her run wild as you discuss yesterday's news with a fellow dog lover. If you watch her carefully, you will easily and quickly learn what works best for her.
A "little" paranoia is normal. The first thing I suggest is that you visit the park without Simba. See if you like the social interaction of the other dogs. Check to see that everyone is keeping an eye on their dogs, that they are generally under control, and that there are no 'playground bullies.' Be sure that the area of the park is clean.
I would suggest that your initial forays with Simba be done in off-peak hours, with a pocketful of treats and clean-up baggies. Let Simba check the park out for herself, and practice your basic exercises, like 'come' and 'sit' – you need to remind Simba that you're still in control, even in the park.
If Simba is greeted with an over-exuberant welcoming committee upon her initial arrival, be mindful of her body language. Provided that Simba adapts to this well and enjoys chasing and being chased, she will soon learn that going to the park is a lot of fun. But you don't want her to be traumatized and turn into a 'fear biter.' It is possible that Simba won't enjoy the park, and you will have to exercise her with a more formal walk as opposed to letting her run wild as you discuss yesterday's news with a fellow dog lover. If you watch her carefully, you will easily and quickly learn what works best for her.
Dear Deena,
My name is Brian and I have a 5 month old Cockapoo name Stewie, When Stewie and I start playing he gets overexcited and starts biting more than licking. How do I tone the biting down?
My name is Brian and I have a 5 month old Cockapoo name Stewie, When Stewie and I start playing he gets overexcited and starts biting more than licking. How do I tone the biting down?
Hi Brian,
Your cockapoo Stewie sounds lovely. Try giving appropriate chew toys to your dog and practice the 'high yip'. Usually when you mimic another dog your puppy Stewie will stop. Another form of play for Stewie to engage in is fetch, just remember when you start the game, you finish it before Stewie and put the toy on the shelf, so later on in his life when you take out that toy he'll be willing to kill, maim and die for that toy. Why? Because you're in control. Another game is to play hide and seek of the food kind. Have someone hold your pup and get 10 treats, sprinkle the treats around the living room then get Stewie and point to the first treat and say 'find it'. Before you know it you'll see that Stewie is using his nose to find treats and not his mouth to nip at you. And before you know it you'll have one treat or his toy and say Stewie 'go find it'! Voila instead of finding the treat he'll come up with that expensive wrist watch that you thought you lost forever!
Your cockapoo Stewie sounds lovely. Try giving appropriate chew toys to your dog and practice the 'high yip'. Usually when you mimic another dog your puppy Stewie will stop. Another form of play for Stewie to engage in is fetch, just remember when you start the game, you finish it before Stewie and put the toy on the shelf, so later on in his life when you take out that toy he'll be willing to kill, maim and die for that toy. Why? Because you're in control. Another game is to play hide and seek of the food kind. Have someone hold your pup and get 10 treats, sprinkle the treats around the living room then get Stewie and point to the first treat and say 'find it'. Before you know it you'll see that Stewie is using his nose to find treats and not his mouth to nip at you. And before you know it you'll have one treat or his toy and say Stewie 'go find it'! Voila instead of finding the treat he'll come up with that expensive wrist watch that you thought you lost forever!
Dear Deena,
Our older dog is refusing to play with the new puppy. we thought that it would make him feel young again, yet it causes a lot of stress and strife between the family members of the two legged kind.
Heavy hearted,
The Smithern family
Our older dog is refusing to play with the new puppy. we thought that it would make him feel young again, yet it causes a lot of stress and strife between the family members of the two legged kind.
Heavy hearted,
The Smithern family
Your older dog is probably disgusted that you have brought home a new pup. By ignoring her, he is teaching her that he is the pack leader and must be respected. He may also view the pup as an intruder in his household.
Let your older dog make up to your pup in his own sweet time. He may start to play with her once he sees that she accepts his terms.
Take them for walks together so your older dog can be the knowledgeable leader, with the pup following curiously and respectfully. Give your older dog calming petting sessions and have some one else sit near by and massage the puppy. Play with your dogs in the yard or in the house. Providing a long toy such as an old table cloth tied in knots, and encourage your pup to chase the end of it as you drag it around.
Speak happily to your older dog when you are petting him and the pup comes up. Let him see that the presence of the puppy means that fun things will happen.Give him a place he can retreat to where the pup can't bug him. A separate puppy pen in your yard will aloud them to be separated but close enough to be acquainted.
Review your older dog's obedience training to remind him that you are the top dog in the park. When you are training the pup, let your older dog watch. He will feel pleased that you are getting that silly ill-mannered pup under control. Let your dog maintain his space and allowing the two of them to work out their relationship on their own. Taking walks together will help your older dog view the pup as part of his pack. Don't force the pup onto your dog. Don't leave them alone together until they have became good friends. Provide your pup with her own water, food, and toys. Feed them separately so there is no need for competition or food stealing.
Let your older dog make up to your pup in his own sweet time. He may start to play with her once he sees that she accepts his terms.
Take them for walks together so your older dog can be the knowledgeable leader, with the pup following curiously and respectfully. Give your older dog calming petting sessions and have some one else sit near by and massage the puppy. Play with your dogs in the yard or in the house. Providing a long toy such as an old table cloth tied in knots, and encourage your pup to chase the end of it as you drag it around.
Speak happily to your older dog when you are petting him and the pup comes up. Let him see that the presence of the puppy means that fun things will happen.Give him a place he can retreat to where the pup can't bug him. A separate puppy pen in your yard will aloud them to be separated but close enough to be acquainted.
Review your older dog's obedience training to remind him that you are the top dog in the park. When you are training the pup, let your older dog watch. He will feel pleased that you are getting that silly ill-mannered pup under control. Let your dog maintain his space and allowing the two of them to work out their relationship on their own. Taking walks together will help your older dog view the pup as part of his pack. Don't force the pup onto your dog. Don't leave them alone together until they have became good friends. Provide your pup with her own water, food, and toys. Feed them separately so there is no need for competition or food stealing.
I have a labradoodle named Credo and my concern is she bites people, barks at people and doesn't settle down at night. What should I do? She is only 2.5 months old. I've tried to put her in a crate but she barks frantically all night long.
Sounds like your puppy is very, very young and sounds like you may need some guidance regarding how to handle this new baby that you brought home. Remember aggression begets aggression so if she is biting you and you're using force to stop her from biting, the best way may be to replace your hand with a bully stick or cows hoof. They may be stinky but I promise you your hand will heal. Regarding her barking, it could be out of insecurity and a combination of fear, so you may want to take her to more places to socialize where people are around and have the odd stranger give her a treat and then walk away. Do not have that stranger give her a treat and pat her or this will make her feel threatened once again. To her little eyes, a hand over the head to pat her is aggressive. As for the frantic barking in the crate, you may want to put the crate in your bedroom for the next 3 weeks, and once she feels secure and settled, and knows that your home is now her home, you can then transfer her to outside the room.
Dear Deena,
I recently purchased a German Shepard. My family and I are enjoying him immensely, and now we've had him for three weeks I feel he is out of control.
Regards,
Donna
I recently purchased a German Shepard. My family and I are enjoying him immensely, and now we've had him for three weeks I feel he is out of control.
Regards,
Donna
Dear Donna,
What I would suggest is you either start group classes or have a private trainer come in to help you create structure and boundaries for you and your family to abide by. The puppy needs to realize whats expected of him – if you don't do this soon, if you think you have a wild hooligan on your hands now, just wait. The window of opportunity is 7-16 weeks old for training.
What I would suggest is you either start group classes or have a private trainer come in to help you create structure and boundaries for you and your family to abide by. The puppy needs to realize whats expected of him – if you don't do this soon, if you think you have a wild hooligan on your hands now, just wait. The window of opportunity is 7-16 weeks old for training.
Dear Deena,
I recently purchased a Cane Corso and I already have a 3 year old Pitbull whos is very well behaved. I live in an apartment building and I realize everytime people try to pet my Cane Corso, she runs behind my legs and yipes as if she is being tortured. How do I change my puppy's attitude towards people when I know she is going to turn into a 120 lb dog?
Signed,
Elaine
I recently purchased a Cane Corso and I already have a 3 year old Pitbull whos is very well behaved. I live in an apartment building and I realize everytime people try to pet my Cane Corso, she runs behind my legs and yipes as if she is being tortured. How do I change my puppy's attitude towards people when I know she is going to turn into a 120 lb dog?
Signed,
Elaine
Dear Elaine,
I would take some treats with you and set it up with a friend, making that friend a pretend friendly stranger. Have your puppy sit beside you and have your friend walk by and toss a treat without making any eye contact or petting the dog – the friend should NOT acknowledge the dog. The friend should also do this at about 8 feet away. Do this for approximately 4 – 5 days and then the following 4-5 days get the 'stranger' to throw a treat from 4 feet away. On the 9th day you can ask your 'stranger' to go up and give your dog a treat and hopefully your dog will be in an appetif frame of mind rather than a anxious change of mind when meeting strangers. Moving forward I would suggest you always carry treats with you and have people always give your dog a treat. If they are overly impulsive and ignore your pleas of don't pet my dog, make sure its always under the chin and not over the head.
I would take some treats with you and set it up with a friend, making that friend a pretend friendly stranger. Have your puppy sit beside you and have your friend walk by and toss a treat without making any eye contact or petting the dog – the friend should NOT acknowledge the dog. The friend should also do this at about 8 feet away. Do this for approximately 4 – 5 days and then the following 4-5 days get the 'stranger' to throw a treat from 4 feet away. On the 9th day you can ask your 'stranger' to go up and give your dog a treat and hopefully your dog will be in an appetif frame of mind rather than a anxious change of mind when meeting strangers. Moving forward I would suggest you always carry treats with you and have people always give your dog a treat. If they are overly impulsive and ignore your pleas of don't pet my dog, make sure its always under the chin and not over the head.
Dear Deena,
My 5 month Chocolate Lab puppy is nipping my kids in the morning, and they are no longer in love with him anymore.
Regards,
Paul
My 5 month Chocolate Lab puppy is nipping my kids in the morning, and they are no longer in love with him anymore.
Regards,
Paul
Dear Paul,
If the puppy is loose when the kids come down in the morning to eat breakfast, get a plastic water bottle and put either kibble or ice shavings in it and attach a string to the neck of the bottle and literally hand the bottle to the children as they reach the bottom of the stairs so your puppy focuses on the bottle being dragged behind the child as it walks rather than the on the children's feet. Or, have your children wear hard slippers or shoes, and give the dog a Kong filled with cookies and peanut butter or some other snack to keep him focused on the Kong versus the kids.
If the puppy is loose when the kids come down in the morning to eat breakfast, get a plastic water bottle and put either kibble or ice shavings in it and attach a string to the neck of the bottle and literally hand the bottle to the children as they reach the bottom of the stairs so your puppy focuses on the bottle being dragged behind the child as it walks rather than the on the children's feet. Or, have your children wear hard slippers or shoes, and give the dog a Kong filled with cookies and peanut butter or some other snack to keep him focused on the Kong versus the kids.
Travel & Moving
Dear Deena,
We are planning a holiday trip, either by road or air, and wonder what your advice is for each type of travel. We want to keep our cockapoo, Coco, safe and happy on vacation.
Looking forward to travel with Coco,
Debbie
We are planning a holiday trip, either by road or air, and wonder what your advice is for each type of travel. We want to keep our cockapoo, Coco, safe and happy on vacation.
Looking forward to travel with Coco,
Debbie
Dear Debbie,
There are advantages to each travel plan. If you go by car, keep in mind this is the easiest and most fun way to travel with your dog. Remember, they look forward to a break every two hours; don't forget a car seat or a doggie seat belt; and bring a bottle of water and familiar bowl. For tiny breeds, an enclosed pen is a good idea. Also, be sure that your dog is leashed before leaving the car... a frightened dog in an unfamiliar place can be devastating. If your dog usually jumps out of your car upon arrival, the most important command for your dog to learn prior to your vacation is 'wait,' and then the release word, 'okay.' Obeying this command could save your dog's life!
Remember too that when traveling by car, your dog will never say that the radio is too loud and, except for some hounds, will never sing along. She will never backseat drive or say you're going in the wrong direction either!
In addition to new security regulations for air travel, there are also tighter restrictions on dogs. Your first inquiry should be directed to the airline; most carriers provide this information on their websites. Print a copy, and take it with you when you travel just in case there is any misunderstanding at flight time. If your dog won't be traveling with you under your seat, I suggest that you 'tip' the person who is responsible for transporting your dog onto the plane in his crate to help with Doggie VIP treatment.
If Coco is too big to be accommodated under your seat, she will travel in a crate in the hold. To safely stow her, the crate should be big enough to allow her to stand and turn around. Use a crate with handles and side rims for easy lifting. Write 'Live Dog' on the top and side of the container. Freeze some water in his crate dish, so that there is minimum spillage. Do not tranquilize your dog. This, combined with the increased altitude, could affect Coco's equilibrium and possibly her respiratory and cardiovascular systems. This is particularly true with pugs, bulldogs, and other flat-faced breeds. Make sure she does her 'business' prior to check in. While you're boarding the plane, ask the gate agent if he can check to make sure Coco is stowed safely.
Whichever travel you choose, have a great time!
Deena
There are advantages to each travel plan. If you go by car, keep in mind this is the easiest and most fun way to travel with your dog. Remember, they look forward to a break every two hours; don't forget a car seat or a doggie seat belt; and bring a bottle of water and familiar bowl. For tiny breeds, an enclosed pen is a good idea. Also, be sure that your dog is leashed before leaving the car... a frightened dog in an unfamiliar place can be devastating. If your dog usually jumps out of your car upon arrival, the most important command for your dog to learn prior to your vacation is 'wait,' and then the release word, 'okay.' Obeying this command could save your dog's life!
Remember too that when traveling by car, your dog will never say that the radio is too loud and, except for some hounds, will never sing along. She will never backseat drive or say you're going in the wrong direction either!
In addition to new security regulations for air travel, there are also tighter restrictions on dogs. Your first inquiry should be directed to the airline; most carriers provide this information on their websites. Print a copy, and take it with you when you travel just in case there is any misunderstanding at flight time. If your dog won't be traveling with you under your seat, I suggest that you 'tip' the person who is responsible for transporting your dog onto the plane in his crate to help with Doggie VIP treatment.
If Coco is too big to be accommodated under your seat, she will travel in a crate in the hold. To safely stow her, the crate should be big enough to allow her to stand and turn around. Use a crate with handles and side rims for easy lifting. Write 'Live Dog' on the top and side of the container. Freeze some water in his crate dish, so that there is minimum spillage. Do not tranquilize your dog. This, combined with the increased altitude, could affect Coco's equilibrium and possibly her respiratory and cardiovascular systems. This is particularly true with pugs, bulldogs, and other flat-faced breeds. Make sure she does her 'business' prior to check in. While you're boarding the plane, ask the gate agent if he can check to make sure Coco is stowed safely.
Whichever travel you choose, have a great time!
Deena
Hi Deena:
We're moving house this spring – it's exciting but quite stressful. Is there any advice you can give us on reducing the stress on Daniel our Spaniel?
Janice, BWV
We're moving house this spring – it's exciting but quite stressful. Is there any advice you can give us on reducing the stress on Daniel our Spaniel?
Janice, BWV
Hi Janice:
Moving is stressful, but there's plenty you can do to reduce the stress on Daniel. Firstly, let me say that if Daniel currently hasseparation anxiety problems, it's essential that you deal with them BEFORE you move.
Separation anxiety aside, here's what I recommend: keep his food and sleeping arrangements the same if you can – this isn't the time to change his bed or crate, even if it clashes with your new decor. If you're staying within the city, take Daniel over to the new place for a few visits before moving day so he can get used to the sights, sounds and smells of the new 'hood. And for his sake, as well as yours, put him in a doggy daycare or a at friend's house for moving day itself. It'll make things easier on you, him, and the movers, and you won't be worrying about him dashing out and getting lost.
And a couple of other things – for obvious reasons, please make sure you get his tags updated before you move and keep all his vet information handy. And make sure that he is safe and comfortable in his cage or dog seat belt when you take him over to the new place – try to minimize the clutter in the car.
If you're moving further afield, there are other things you'll need to consider. Gravol (see your vet for dosage) reduces stress on a long drive, and take some water with you – even a slight change in water chemistry can give Daniel diarrhea until he gets settled.
It may take a few days, but as you settle down at your new home, so will Daniel. Good Luck.
Moving is stressful, but there's plenty you can do to reduce the stress on Daniel. Firstly, let me say that if Daniel currently hasseparation anxiety problems, it's essential that you deal with them BEFORE you move.
Separation anxiety aside, here's what I recommend: keep his food and sleeping arrangements the same if you can – this isn't the time to change his bed or crate, even if it clashes with your new decor. If you're staying within the city, take Daniel over to the new place for a few visits before moving day so he can get used to the sights, sounds and smells of the new 'hood. And for his sake, as well as yours, put him in a doggy daycare or a at friend's house for moving day itself. It'll make things easier on you, him, and the movers, and you won't be worrying about him dashing out and getting lost.
And a couple of other things – for obvious reasons, please make sure you get his tags updated before you move and keep all his vet information handy. And make sure that he is safe and comfortable in his cage or dog seat belt when you take him over to the new place – try to minimize the clutter in the car.
If you're moving further afield, there are other things you'll need to consider. Gravol (see your vet for dosage) reduces stress on a long drive, and take some water with you – even a slight change in water chemistry can give Daniel diarrhea until he gets settled.
It may take a few days, but as you settle down at your new home, so will Daniel. Good Luck.
My husband and I are going away for 5 weeks and we're not sure if we should put our cockapoo with a friend who has a lab and 6 kids because we're afraid our dog may come back a changed dog. I'm really torn, what should I do?
I would suggest you go over there and watch how the lab interacts with your cockapoo. Labs tend to be a bit on the over-exuberant side which may or may not be fine for your dog depending on your dog's personality. It also depends on how old the lab is. Having said that, if your dog is showing any forms of stress or anxiety and the lab clearly doesn't know when to quit, and the people in the household are oblivious to the body language and signs of your dog then I suggest you go with your gut and go elsewhere. Perhaps your dog should stay in a household that's a little calmer as it would be a shame to have your dog come back and start snapping at every dog that they meet because no one was watching the interaction of your dog and the other dog for 5 weeks and therefore your dog now has a totally different attitude towards his canine friends.
Dear Deena,
How do I acclimatize her so she won't be so stressed when I leave on vacation? Sasha is a 3 year old pug, I have tried a variety of places and it doesn't seem to work – she hardly eats and always returns with diarrhea when I bring her home.
Best,
Maria
How do I acclimatize her so she won't be so stressed when I leave on vacation? Sasha is a 3 year old pug, I have tried a variety of places and it doesn't seem to work – she hardly eats and always returns with diarrhea when I bring her home.
Best,
Maria
Dear Maria,
I would suggest you do a meet and greet and choose an in-home environment for her if you haven't already done that. Ask your vet for a bottle of Tylocine so whomever is caring for her can sprinkle some on the food to minimize the diarrhea, or if she's not eating perhaps you can let them know her favourite food (cheese/cream cheese/chunk of liver) and they can give that to her separately. Try and put her in a place that's quiet and less stressful without a lot of dogs around. Find a place that is size appropriate for your dog so your dog is with dogs of similar size, and if your budget allows perhaps the best thing for your dog is to bring someone into the home and sleep there while you are away to minimize your dogs stress.
I would suggest you do a meet and greet and choose an in-home environment for her if you haven't already done that. Ask your vet for a bottle of Tylocine so whomever is caring for her can sprinkle some on the food to minimize the diarrhea, or if she's not eating perhaps you can let them know her favourite food (cheese/cream cheese/chunk of liver) and they can give that to her separately. Try and put her in a place that's quiet and less stressful without a lot of dogs around. Find a place that is size appropriate for your dog so your dog is with dogs of similar size, and if your budget allows perhaps the best thing for your dog is to bring someone into the home and sleep there while you are away to minimize your dogs stress.
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